Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Neck Ornaments (b): Mala’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
2.4. Neck Ornaments (b): Mālā
The term Mālā is used to denote a long garland made of metals, gems or flowers. Plenty of references are there in our literature mentioning this garland made of gold, glass, jewels and flowers. It is also know by the names Mālya and Mālikā.
Ṛgveda makes reference to gold chain. There it is called as Kāñcanamālā[1].
In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa, Bāli is described as wearing a Mālā, presented by Indra. It was made out of gold, intermingled with ivory[2].
Purāṇas make lot of references to Vanamālā[3] and Vaijayantimālā. Vanamālā is a long garland touching the knee and made of various flowers. Bhāgavatapurāṇa often describes lord Kṛṣṇa adorned with Vanamālā. Vaijayantimālā otherwise known as Vaijayantikā is associated with lord Viṣṇu. In Viṣṇupurāṇa it is stated that this Vaijayantikā is made of five kinds of gems -pearl, ruby, emerald and blue sapphire[4]. These five gems are considered as symbols of five elements. Bhāgavatapurāṇa also refers to Vaijayantikā[5]. There it is described as presented by the hermits of Naimiṣa to Balarāma. Another variety described there is a Ratnamālikā.
Bharata uses both the terms Mālā and Mālya. He talks about Ratnamālikā also[6].
In the dramas of Bhāsa, several indications of Hemamālā and Kanakamālā are made[7].
Kālidāsa[8], Bāṇa and Māgha also referred to it in several contexts. Sphaṭikamaṇimālā mentioned by Māgha is comprised of beeds of crystals[9]. There is a special mention to an Aṣṭamaṅgalakamālā in Harṣacarita[10]. It consists of eight different auspicious objects. For the same reason it is believed to be a dispeller of misfortunes. The army chief of Harṣa is described as wearing this. Mention is also made of' Prālambamālikā and Lavaṅgamālā[11]. The Former, as the name indicates is a long garland hanging down to the chest, while the latter is either a garland made of cloves or that designed after cloves. Reference for a Mālā made with glass beeds is seen in Kuṭṭanīmata[12].
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
XVI.84
[2]:
IV.16.50
[3]:
10.70.11,11.27
[4]:
ASHAA, p.220
[5]:
10.79.8
[6]:
Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.116-120
[7]:
Abhiṣekanāṭaka, Act I
[8]:
Mālavikāgnimitra, p.36
[9]:
DAOAI
[10]:
p.120
[11]:
Harṣa and His Times, p.378
[12]:
v.67