Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Royal Dress’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

2.20. Royal Dress

Royal garments were usually of costly texture. Usually there were settings of jewels and were sometimes embroidered with golden fibers. Their clothes were perfumed and during the ceremonial occasions as well as during festivals, they wore new clothes. For funeral purposes also they used costly clothing.

Bāṇa[1] gives ample references to the clothing of kings and other royal personages. A King in many contexts is described by Bāṇa[2] as attired in two pieces of silk clothes which are thin, transparent and decorated with different patterns. Such clothes are there mentioned as Magnāṃśuka. Because of its thinness, such garments were also known as Niśvāsahārya, meaning one could be easily blown away even by the breath. Bāṇa also attests the dress of a king on various occasions. Thus a king wears white silk garment after bath. During lunch a Dukūla is usually worn. We also get an idea of the manner of wearing clothes by the royals from Bāṇa. In Saundarananda[3], we read of the bed of Sundarī, having a multicoloured silken cover, set with diamonds. In another context, she is described as clothed in silk, decorated with golden designs. A similar description is given in Buddhacarita[4], associated with the clothing of Siddhārtha. In Śiśupālavadha[5], the description of the slipping of Śiśupāla’s lower garment is an evidence for the fine texture used by kings, for there is no possibility of slipping away any clothes other than fine silk.

In Mahābhārata[6] we come across Kuntī asking to cover the body of Mādrī with costly cloth.

From all the above given information, it cannot be concluded that royals were always clad in gorgeous garments. They wore dresses suiting the occasions. In Saundarananda[7], we find Nanda going to meet Buddha wearing clothes suiting a disciple. Similarly in Buddhacarita[8], Siddhārtha is described as wearing forest dress, instead of princely attire while entering a forest. There in another context, ladies of the harem are described as clad in yellow garments. Since yellow symbolises love, they wore it in order to excite Siddhārtha. Similarly Aśvaghoṣa[9] refers to royal ladies wearing torn and dirty clothes during mourning.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

ICCO, p.25

[2]:

Kādambarī, pp.130, 131, 133,154, 182, 201

[3]:

III.25

[4]:

VI.59

[5]:

I.61, IV.5, 21,V.7, 52,VI.27, 37,VIII.41

[6]:

I.18.3,7,8

[7]:

IV.38

[8]:

VIII.48, V.60, 64, 43, 44,51

[9]:

Saundarananda, VI.34; Bc, VIII.21

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