Head-dress of Women (a): Karanda-makuta

The female dancer (fig. 153) portrayed in the panels of the Thantontrisvara temple at Kanchipuram is shown wearing a short karanda-makuta formed of three receding globular spires and ornamented with floral decoration at the front. The Govardhanadhari panel at Mamallapuram gives one of the beautiful depictions of a karanda-makuta. Here Nappinai (fig. 154), the consort of Krishna is seen wearing an elongated makuta formed of receding tiers of four karandas. The base portion of the makuta is ornamented with pair of semi-circular designs on either ends, probably floral designs. From the middle portion of the rim and extending over to the makuta can be seen a vertical band decked with two oval or pear shaped blank medallions. The karanda-makuta type seems to have originated from a type of coiffure involving arrangement of hair in receding circular tiers. So in such cases, this transverse band has a functional purpose, in uniting the succeeding locks of hair with the fore-head band below and preventing it from dishevelment. Indeed, this can be regarded as an earliest form of siro-mala, which in course of its evolution lost its functional purpose and remained just like an ornamental diadem. From similar type of makuta worn by the celestials depicted in the Gajalakshmi panel and also by Durga in the panel of Varaha-mandapa at Mamallapuram, it is understood that the rim portion of the makuta have two such oval or pear shaped appendages at the sides also and they actually help in giving support to the makuta above. But in all these cases the medallions are blank without any further decoration and hence, they appear to be incomplete in finish. However, the ornamental details of these medallions can be known from the image of Durga carved in the Draupadi-ratha at Mamallapuram (fig. 155). From this it can be construed that these medallions could have consisted of a large circular gem in the middle, bordered by string of beads.

In the course of the evolution of karanda-makuta, its basic shape remained the same, except for its length and ornamental flourishes on it. However, the siro-mala at its base underwent change in its contour, from flat to curve and in its formation as discussed earlier. Interestingly the ornamentation on it remained the same, having floral decoration at the extreme end and a transverse band in the middle. Thus the base of the karanda-makuta adorning the head of Durga in the Jalanathesvara temple at Thakkolam has a siro-mala in the form of a round diadem (fig. 156). The median band giving a pinching form to the siro-mala has beaded designs on it and it connects transversely with the circular medallion adorning the tier above. The medallion again is of different decor and it has a kirtimukha in its centre, surrounded by the usual beaded border. In between the circular medallion and the transverse band below can be seen a horizontal strip formed of a square gem flanked by makara motif. From this sculpture, it is also known that even the sides of the makuta has such medallions.

Another variety of karanda-makuta in the form of short conical cap can be seen adorning the head of Gajalakshmi. This is a peculiar type of makuta seen in this period and especially in association with this goddess. A fine example of this type can be seen in the Gajalakshmi panel of the Varaha-mandapa at Mamallapuram. Here the head-dress is seen in the form of a short conical crown with a plain round siro-mala around its base. The conical part at its front has a pear shaped ornament, which is blank without any further embellishments.

A different kind of ornamentation is seen on the karanda-makuta adorning the head of a goddess from Kaveripakkam^[1] (fig.161). Just above the base of the makuta a beaded chain can be seen encircling it and above this in the middle portion is seen a medallion formed of various parts from bottom to top like a pair of makara motifs flanking a square gem, followed by a concentric part and finally crowned by five finials.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Now kept in Govt. Museum, Chennai, Acc. No: 112-68-38.