Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Lower Garments (d): Nivi (lower garment)’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

2.2. Lower Garments (d): Nīvi (lower garment)

The term Nīvi is used in different senses. According to one tradition, Nīvi is the name given to lower garments in general, while some others mentioned it only as a portion of the lower garment, either the knot that keeps the garment in position or some fringes hanging down from it. These fringes were usually formed in between the two legs. Pāṇini[1] in one context has referred to Nīvi as a waist band that keeps the lower garment in position. However the earliest reference to Nīvi is found in Atharvaveda[2]. In Taittirīya-saṃhitā[3] also we meet with the word Nīvi. Kālidāsa[4] has ascribed Nīvi to the female dress. He has mentioned the slipping of Nīvībandha very often. Nīvi was sometimes close fitting and was worn in such a way that lot of pleats were produced in it. Such a style was usually adopted by royal ladies. Ambālikā, characterised by Daṇḍi[5] is seen in one context as wearing Nīvi in the above said manner. Kalhaṇa[6] compares such pleats of Nīvi to the palm leaves wavering in the wind. The fringed end of Nīvi is called as Prāgāṭa[7], which finds mention in Vedic literature.

Footnotes and references:

[2]:

VII.2.6, XIV.2.59

[3]:

VI.1.1.3

[4]:

Kumārasambhava,VII.60,VIII.4; Uttara megha, 5; Raghuvaṃśa, VII.9

[6]:

Rājataraṅgiṇi, V,VII

[7]:

SLMK, p.72

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