Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials (b): Silver’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

1.1. Materials (b): Silver

Silver is a white coloured, shining metal, which has been in use since Vedic times. Even though rich and poor were fond of wearing silver ornaments, they were more popular among people belonging to middle class. Silver is produced by means of mining and also through chemical processes. Besides these, some myths are also associated with its origin.

Silver was common in the epic period. The description of the town Laṅkā in Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa[1] makes allusions to the use of silver in that period. Mahābhārata[2] also attests the use of silver. The presents received by Yudhiṣṭhira during the imperial sacrifice include silver articles given by the king of Prāgjyotiṣa.

Purāṇas in general talk about the origin of silver in connection with myths. Thus according to the Purāṇas, it is the semen of Śiva that changed into silver[3]. But Garuḍapurāṇa attributes its origin to mercury. It describes a method, in which silver is generated by smoldering the mixture of honey, clarified butter, jaggery and the juice of Kāravella (a kind of vegetable)[4].

Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[5] makes reference to four types of silver on the basis of its colour and the region from where it is excavated. They are:

Name Colour Region
Tutthodgata Similar to Jasmine Tuttha mountain
Gauḍika Looks like Tagara flower Assam
Kāmbuka Looks like Tagara flower Kāmbu mountain
Cakravālika Resembles Kunda flower Cakravāla mountains


According to Kauṭilya, white silver with smooth and soft surface is the best, while black coloured silver with surface containing cracks are inferior. Pure silver resembles curd in colour and it is glossy. The characteristics of silver ore also are described by him.

Synonyms of silver mentioned in Amarakośa[6] are–(1) Rajata, (2) Rūpya, (3) Śveta, (4) Kharjura and (5) Duvarṇa.

From the works of Aśvaghoṣa[7] it is evident that silver was in abundance in his nation.

Caraka[8] recommends silver tonics for diseases. The preparation of silver tonic is similar to that of gold tonic. The gold plate dipped in the decoction of ingredients is replaced by silver plate.

In Rasaratnasamuccaya[9] it is said that silver is subjected to purification by melting it with lead and borax. For this process, silver placed in an earthen dish along with the mixture of lime and ashes is to be heated. Then only the purified silver will remain in the dish. For making silver powder, three methods are described in Rasaratnasamuccaya. In the first method, after stroking a thin sheet of silver with mercury and juice of Lakuca, it is to be placed in sulphur and heated. When cold, the same process is to be repeated by rubbing the silver sheet with orpiment and acids. In the second method, silver is powdered by roasting the silver sheet with the mixture of lemon juice and iron pyrites. In the third method, the same process is repeated; but the iron pyrites is replaced by orpiment. In the three methods mentioned above, the time taken for roasting is varied.

Rasaratnākara[10] gives an account of two methods of silver purification. In the first method, silver which is treated with the cinnabar and digested with eve milk acquires a lustre resembling the colour of saffron. Silver can also be purified by alloying it with lead and fusing with ashes. In another process referred to in Rasacintāmaṇi[11], silver is generated by fusing a mixture of bell metal, silver and steel taken in different proportions with tin and borax.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Sundarakāṇḍa

[2]:

Sabhāparva, 51.16

[4]:

1.84.19

[5]:

DAOAI, p.139

[6]:

2.9.96

[7]:

Saundarananda, X.9

[8]:

AHHC, p.30

[9]:

Ibid, p.45

[10]:

Ibid, p.4

[11]:

Ibid, p.70

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