2.1. Various other Head Ornaments

Besides the aforesaid varieties, some other names, associated with the head ornaments are–(1) Aṭakā, (2) Dostūna, (3) Stupā, (4) Stukā, (5) Śrṅga, (6) Śṛiṅga, (7) Śtipra, (8) Opaśa, (9) Sraga, (10) Sraja, (11) Mauli, (12) Kurīra, (13) Tirīṭa, (14) Kumbha, (15) Jaṭā, (16) Karaṇḍa, (17) Śirastraka, (18) Kuntala, (19) Keśabandha, (20) Dhammilla, (21) Alaka, (22) Cūḍā, 23) Patra, (24) Ratna, (25) Puṣpa, (26) Sitāra, (27) Prabhāvalī, (28) Prabhāmaṇḍana, (29) Catuṣpūrṇimā, (30) Ratnapūrṇimā, (31) Hastivaktra, (32) Ardhendu, (33) Nāga, (34) Gaṅgā, (35) Haṃsatilaka, (36) Ratnajāla, (37) Kapālamaṇi, (38) Śikhāpāśa, (39) Śikhāvyāla, (40) Piṇḍīpatra, (41) Makarapatra, (42) Veṇīguccha, (43) Pārśvamauli, (44) Makarikā, (45) Śīrṣajālaka, (46) Śikhipatra, (47) Gavākṣikam, (48) Kandaka, (49) Soḍoraka, (50) Lalāṭatilaka, (51) Bhṛuguccha, (52) Upariguccha, (53) Śikhājāla, (54) Vartalalāṭikā, 55) Daṇḍaka, (56) Cūḍāmaṇḍana, (57) Pulakabandha, (58) Candralekhikā, (59) Tilakabindu, (60) Keśamukuṭa, (61) Śikhāmaṇi, (62) Mālya, (63) Maṅgabandhana, (64) Śikhaṇḍakhaṇdikā, (65) Bālapāśya, (66) Paritathya, (67) Muṇḍamālā, 68) Prabhraṣṭaka, (69) Āpīḍa, (70) Garbhaka, 71) Sarasa, (72) Srajāmālā, (73) Śekharamaṇi, (74) Śikhaṇḍābharaṇa, (75) Svastika, (76) Uṣṇīṣa, (77) Tilaka, (78) Caṭulatilaka, (79) Lalāṭapaṭṭa, (80) Lalāṭikā, (81) Muktājāla and (82) Patrapāśya.

The first fourteen of the above mentioned are belong to the Vedic period. Of these, Aṭaka, Stupā, Stukā, Śrṅga, Śṛiṅga and Śtipra are for men, while Kurīra, Kumbha and Opaśa are for ladies^[1].

Twelve of the above mentioned, beginning from Jaṭā are associated with deities. Of which, Jaṭā is for Brahma, Śiva, Rudra and Manonmaṇī. Śirastraka is for Yakṣas, Nāgas and Vidyādharas. Kuntala and Keśabandha are for Lakṣmī and Sarasvatī, while the rest are ornaments of Śiva. Ardhendu, Nāga and Gaṅgā are ornamental representations of crescent, serpent and river respectively. Ardhendu and Gaṅgā decorate the right and left side of the hair lock, while Nāga is seen round the matted locks. These ornaments are associated with the manifestations of Śiva like Somaskanda, Naṭeśvara, Candraśekhara and Gaṅgādhara. Prabhāvalī and Prabhāmaṇḍana represent the hallow surrounding the deity, which is made by means of metals, designed in such a way as to look like brilliant rays emanating around the head of the deity. Lalāṭapaṭṭa indicates either the base of a crown or a bejewelled band worn round the forehead. The motifs seen on the four sides of Lalāṭapaṭṭa are known as Catuṣpūrṇimā. When inlaid with precious gems, it is called Ratnapūrṇimā and it sometimes seen with foliated decorations or floral designs^[2].

Ratnajāla is a net of jewels, decorating the coiffure. Kapālamaṇi is worn by men. Sixteen of the above mentioned, starting from Śikhāpāśa are referred to in Nāṭyaśāstra and Agnipurāṇa^[3]. They are specially meant for ladies. Pārśvamauli is designed for male characters come lower in rank. Mauli belongs to the head gear of middle ranked characters such as chief ministers, chief of the army etc.

Forehead ornaments include, Lalāṭikā, Tilaka, Caṭulatilaka, Candralekhikā, Vartalalāṭikā, Lalāṭatilaka, Sitāra and Muṇḍamālā. For making Muṇḍamālā, flowers like lotus and Mālatī were used^[4].

Ornaments for the top of the head include Svastika, Uṣṇīṣa, Śīrṣajālaka, Śikhipatra, Gavākṣikam, Śikhāpāśa, Āpīḍa, Piṇḍīpatra and Śikhaṇḍābharaṇa^[5]. Śikhipatra is designed after a peacock feather. Śīrṣajālaka is a net of pearls.

At the parting of the hair, ornaments like Haṃsatilaka and Maṅgabandhana were used. These were considered auspicious^[6].

Braided hair was decorated with Veṇīguccha, Bālapāśya, and Patrapāśya. Prabhraṣṭaka was a garland^[7].

Above the eye brow, Bhṛuguccha and Upariguccha were worn^[8].

Garbhaka and Mālya are garlands worn on the centre and bun of the hair respectively^[9].

Mānasāra lists a number of head ornaments in ten verses^[10].

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Atharvaveda, 1.14.1, 6.138.2, 9.4.17, 19.36.2; Ṛgveda, 5.55.6, 1.24.7, 1.63.9, 2.34.3, 4.7.4, 1.173.6, 8.14.6, 10.85.8, 4.38.6; Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa, 5.4.5.22, 1.3.35, 3.5.3.4; Aitareya-brāhmaṇa, 6.18; Pañcaviṃśa-brāhmaṇa, 3.3.24

[2]:

ASHAA, p.221

[3]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.22-42; Agnipurāṇa, 112-116

[4]:

Aṣṭādhyāyī, 4.3.65; Harṣacarita, p.32; Ūrubhaṅga, 1.9; Amarakośa; Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa, II.12.12; Mahābhārata, I.1; Nāṭyaśāstra; Raghuvaṃśa, 11.9, 44; Mahiṣāsuramarddinī in Indian Art (Mahiṣāsuramarddinī), p.108; History of Kosala up to the Rise of Mouryas, p.407; ISKD

[5]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.22-42; Mahābhārata, I.1; Amarakośa, 2.6.134; SCTD, p.266; India in the Time of Patañjali, p.97

[6]:

Mānasollāsa, vv.1102-05; Harṣacarita, P.52,474; Kādambarī, pp.133,171

[7]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, 22-42; Amarakośa, 2.6.103

[8]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, 22-42

[9]:

Amarakośa, 2.6.134

[10]:

JORI, p.437