Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials (c): Padmaraga (Ruby)’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

1.2. Materials (c): Padmarāga (Ruby)

Ruby is a valuable gem and is used to make ornaments. This gem is found in different colours. Depending on its origin, the characteristics of this gem are different.

According to Purāṇic belief, ruby is created from the skin of the demon Bala. Purāṇas[1] speak of two colours of ruby -a yellowish white and a reddish yellow. The latter is known by the name Kauraṇḍa.

Gāndharvī (Celestial musicians) characters on the stage are referred to as wearing ornaments fashioned from ruby[2].

Kauṭilya[3] compares the colour of a ruby with that of a lotus.

Bṛhatsaṃhitā[4] considers an excellent ruby even precious than diamond. Qualities and effects are interrelated in calculating the real price of a ruby. Bṛhatsaṃhitā gives a table regarding the price of a ruby.

Three substances are described in Bṛhatsaṃhitā as the sources of ruby. They are–

  1. Saugandhika (Sulphur),
  2. Kuruvinda (Cinnabar) and
  3. Spaṭika (Crystal).

The lustre of the ruby, born of sulphur is said to be similar to bees, collyrium, lotus and the fruit juice of rose apple, while ruby derived from cinnabar is of grey colour, less shining and contains mineral substances. A crystal born ruby is said to be radiant, pure and seen in different hues. An excellent ruby will be smooth, pure, weighty, good structured, dark red and bright, while rubies with signs contrary to the above mentioned are inferior. According to one belief stated in Bṛhatsaṃhitā, a ruby found on the serpents hood -Māṇikya has the power to destroy the enemies of a king who wears it. He will be free from diseases and never affected with poison. Moreover, his country will be blessed with rain due to the power of this gem[5].

Footnotes and references:

[2]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.56-76

[3]:

DAOAI, p.146

[4]:

LXXXI.3, 4

[5]:

Ibid, 7-11

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