1.2. Materials: Gems (Introduction)

Even though the subject of gems is seen mentioned in our literature in a scattered form, it is indeed considered a branch seeking special status. Some classify different features of gems under science, while others consider it an art.This branch mainly deals with the following factors. (1) Sources, (2) Qualities, (3) Defects, (4) Effects, (5) Colour, (6) Varieties, (7) Shape, (8) Price, (9) Testing and (10) Size.

Gems are used for decorative as well as religious purposes. Besides their utility as ornaments, some beliefs associated with the planets also prompt one to wear gems. The effect of a jewel depends on its quality. Even though gems are produced as a result of some natural Phenomena, some myths also exist regarding their origin. In Vedas we have reference to a few varieties of gems while in the other works ranging from Purāṇas, a number of gems are recorded.

Garuḍapurāṇa^[1] ascribes its origin to the different parts of the body of the demon Bala. Agnipurāṇa^[2] gives information about the gems worn by a king and also the ones used for special purposes and on certain occasions. Skandapurāṇa^[3] speaks of good and evil effects made by gems. This is illustrated by the stories of Ānarta and Agastya, where the former became blind by stealing a gem, while the latter got back his vision after giving gems as present.

Śivapurāṇa lists Navaratnas thus—

[...].^[4]

In Matsyapurāṇa^[5] mention is made of gems, which are to be given as Dāna (Gift). Thus in a Ratnadhenūdāna, a cow’s motif made of Ratna is prescribed. In Ratnācaladāna, the gems suggested for making the model of a mountain are, Muktāphala, Vajra, Indranīla, Padmarāga Vaiḍūrya and Vidruma.

We get plenty of references to gems in Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa and in Mahābhārata. The gifts made by the kings at the Rājasūya sacrifice of Yudhiṣṭhira include, articles made of various precious stones^[6]. In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa also we come across the jewel gifts presented by the Sāmudras of Kautya, Aparānta and the merchants of Udīcya, Pratīcya and Dākṣiṇātya^[7].

Smṛtis insist on wearing gems by kings; for gems are considered a dispeller of poison^[8].

Kauṭilya devotes a separate chapter in Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[9] to this subject, which elaborately deals with the administration of the department of jewellery and also the working of jewel mines. The characteristics of various gems and gem ores also form part of this chapter.

Aśvaghoṣa^[10] also speaks of the mines of precious stones in his country.

Maṇirāgākarajñāna and Rūpyaratnaparīkṣā are two of the sixty-four arts itemised by Vātsyāyana^[11]. Of these, the first one deals with the knowledge of the colouring of gems and details of mines, while the latter deals with the examination of jewels. Piercing and incinerating the stones are also regarded as an art by Śukranītisāra^[12]. There was even a society of jewellers, who were skilled in their respective crafts. Vātsyāyana talks about a Vaikaṭika, who is skilled in cutting and refining precious stones, especially diamonds^[13]. Bilhaṇa^[14] also makes reference to Ratnaparīkṣā. There we get evidence to the teaching of Ratnaparīkṣā to princes.

Mṛcchakaṭika^[15] gives a perfect picture of jewellery making prevalent in that period, where in the house of Vasantasenā, jewellers are seen involved in fashioning ornaments. Their craft includes procedures such as polishing, setting, cutting and weaving of various gems.

Regarding some chemical processing of gems, P.C Ray^[16] quotes a passage from Nāgārjuna, where the dissolution of gems is described, which is possible by means of some vegetable acids and sour gruel.

The above mentioned works discuss a number of gems. Some of them are as follows.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

1.68.9-10

[2]:

Ratnaparīkṣā, vv.1-62

[3]:

6.103.49, 89

[4]:

II.11-12

[5]:

89.1-4

[6]:

II.45.32

[7]:

Ayodhyākāṇḍa, 82.8

[8]:

Manusmṛti, 7.218

[9]:

II.12.7

[10]:

Buddhacarita, VIII.46,VI.13

[11]:

Kāmasūtra, I.3.16

[12]:

IC

[13]:

Kāmasūtra, V.2.20, I.3.16

[14]:

Vikramāṅkadevacarita, III.5.58

[15]:

Act IV

[16]:

AHHC, p.5