Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Make -up for Stage Performance’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
6. Make -up for Stage Performance
Aṅgaracanā (Make-up) forms part of Āhāryābhinaya, which according to Bharata is necessary for the succession of a dramatic performance. For it reveals the nature of a particular character, along with other three types of Abhinaya. The body of the actor, especially the face should be painted and the pigments for this purpose are prepared by combining the primary colours like white, blue, yellow and red in various proportions. The colours are varied according to the age, nature, origin, hierarchy, occupation etc. of a character.
The following table describes it[1].
| Characters | Colours |
| Yakṣas, Śākas, Yavanas, Pallavas, Āhikas, Kṣatriyas, Gods, Apsaras, happy mortals, people of north, Brahmins, nymphs. | Gaura (Reddish yellow) |
| Rudra, Arka, Skanda, Drauhiṇa, people of north Kuru, sun, Brahma. | Gold |
| Soma, Bṛhaspati, Śukra, Varuṇa, Himālaya, Balarāma, stars, ocean, Gaṅgā, people of Bhadrāśva | White |
| Budha (Mercury), Agni | Yellow |
| Nārāyaṇa,Vāsuki, Daityas, Dānavas, Rākṣasas, Guhyakas, Piśācas, Vaiśya, Śūdra, Nara, gods of hills, water, sky, Yama | Śyāma (Dark blue) |
| Kirātas, Kāśis, Pāñcālas, Śūrasenas, Uḍhras, Māgadhas, Aṅgas, Vaṅgas, Kaliṅgas, Māhiṣa, persons performing evil acts, possessed of evil spirits, deceased persons, those who engaged in penance, people of an inferior birth (eg.Caṇḍāla, fisherman), Barbarians, Andhras, Drāmilas, Pulindas, people of south, Kosala. | Śyāma (Black) |
| Pitṛs, Vidyādhara, Punnāga, Gandharva, people of Jambudvīpa | Various colours |
| Sages | Plum (Bādaraprabha) |
| King of Bhāratavarṣa | Lotus colour, dark blue, reddish yellow |
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.95-113