Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Use of Medicines (Introduction)’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

3.1. Use of Medicines (Introduction)

Apart the substances besmearing on the body, cosmetics take the form of medicines also. Physical exercises and ideal diet also enhance beauty. Our ancestors had practiced these methods also to make their appearance more attractive. Such practices have been followed by the new generation also. Some of the ancient scriptures, especially medical treatises refer to such medicines.

According to one Āyurvedic theory, the normal proportion of the three Doṣas i.e., the Vāta, Pitta and Kapha is the healthy stage. When this is violated, it will be experienced as disease. That is to say—[...].

These violated humours are responsible for all sorts of skin disorders also. As per Āyurvedic belief sun rays, ultraviolet rays, ailments like eczema, psoriasis, acne etc., negative thoughts, meanest emotions etc. are harmful factors for skin. Medical inscriptions prescribe some medicines, which purify the blood, subdue the deranged humour and thus cure or prevent the skin eruptions caused by the above mentioned factors. In Āyurveda, there is even a branch namely Rasāyanacikitsā, which is devoted to the rejuvenating therapy. This branch recommends some Rasāyanas and medicated ghees for preventing aging and to obtain healthy skin in every stage of life. Some of such Rasāyanas are -Āmalakarasāyana, Cyavanaprāśa, Triphalā, Guḍuci, Pañcāravinda, Gokṣurakarasāyana, Pathyāsahasrādi and Catuṣkuvalaya.

Caraka suggests some Varṇyakaṣāyas which are beneficial in improving complexion and to provide glowing skin. Some of the herbs used to prepare such decoctions are Candana, Nāgakesara, Padmaka, Yaṣṭimadhu, Mañjiṣṭha, Pāyasa, Śvetadūrvā and Śyāmadūrvā. Suśruta also records some herbs in Elādigaṇa, which prove curative in different skin diseases and also adds to complexion. Ideal diet also forms part of skin care. Yogaśāstra recommends some exercises for maintaining skins natural glow and health. Purāṇas also refers to a herb for attaining evergreen youth. But the herb cannot be exactly identified.

Kaucumārayoga[1] is one among the sixty-four arts listed by Vātsyāyana. Bhāmaha also refers to this art. This art is named after Kucumāra, a scholar who had prepared certain medicines for making one’s body beautiful. In Bṛhatsaṃhitā a chapter entitled Saubhāgyakaraṇa is devoted to the means for achieving physical beauty and fortunes.

The text defines the word Saubhāgyakaraṇa thus -

[...]

Here Rūpa indicates colour. By the term Guṇa, Vātsyāyana means generosity. From this it is clear that not only colour or age makes one beautiful or fortunate. But his nobility and good deeds also adds to beauty. Atharvaveda quotes some hymns which are prayers for attaining beauty. There it is said that one desirous of beauty should wear the Bhūrja leaves having written these hymns on the body. For enhancing beauty Vātsyāyana recommends some ointments, oils and medicines. He suggests an unguent made of Tagara, Kuṣṭha and Tālīsa for improving complexion. According to him, oils extracted from certain herbs are useful in making one’s body beautiful. Similarly one desiring beauty is suggested to take the powdered and dried mixture of Nāga flower, water lilly and lotus with ghee and honey in medicine. Vātsyāyana prescribes some remedies for baldness also.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Kalāvidyāvivaraṇa (Kalāvidyāvivaraṇa), pp. 33-37

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