Textile Terminology in Khotanese: A Study of Dress and Equipment
Journal name: Acta Orientalia
Original article title: Vasta
ACTA ORIENTALIA is a journal focused on the study of Oriental languages, history, archaeology, and religions from ancient times to the present. The journal includes articles reviewed by a senior scholar in the relevant field.
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Summary of article contents:
1) Introduction
The article by H. W. Bailey delves into the language and terminology related to textiles in the region of Khotan, known as Gostana-desa. This study builds upon the work of H. Lüders on textiles from Krorain, making connections between various terms found in Khotanese texts and their uses in the broader context of Buddhist Central Asian culture up to 1000 A.D. The author expresses gratitude to his friend Kaj Barr for the inspiration behind this collection of textile-related terms.
2) The Diversity of Apparel Terms
One prominent concept in Bailey's analysis is the rich variety of terms associated with clothing and textiles in Khotanese language. The article lists a range of clothing-related words, such as "khapa," meaning "mantle," and "kaumadai," which refers to "trousers." Each term is examined for its etymology and context, drawing parallels with other languages and cultural references. This diversity reflects not only the practical aspects of clothing in the Central Asian context but also hints at the cultural significance and local practices surrounding apparel.
3) The Role of Fabric and Weaving Techniques
Another important concept highlighted in the article is the significance of materials and weaving techniques in Khotanese textiles. Terms like "auvya," referring to silver cloth embellished with gold, indicate a level of craftsmanship and artistic expression in textile production. The distinctions made between different types of fabric, such as byssus and silk, underscore the importance of material quality and the artisanship involved in textile-making. This aspect of Khotanese culture showcases how weaving and fabric choices were integral to social status and aesthetic values.
4) Clothing as Cultural Signifiers
Bailey further emphasizes that clothing serves as a cultural signifier, reflecting identity and social dynamics within Buddhist Central Asia. Words like "raha" for clothes exemplify how apparel is not merely functional but also a means of expressing cultural affiliations and religious identities. The terminology surrounding clothing, therefore, provides insights into the ways people associated themselves within the spiritual and social frameworks of their communities.
5) The Influence of Foreign Lexicon
The influence of foreign languages on Khotanese clothing terminology is also a significant point in Bailey's study. Many Khotanese words have been traced to roots in Iranian and other related languages, illustrating the interconnectedness of cultures in this region. This borrowing reflects historical trade relationships and exchanges in knowledge that shaped the textile practices in Khotan. The assimilation of these terms into the Khotanese lexicon highlights the importance of textiles as a shared cultural element across diverse communities.
6) Conclusion
In conclusion, H. W. Bailey's article provides a comprehensive examination of Khotanese textile terminology, illuminating the cultural, social, and artistic dimensions of clothing in Buddhist Central Asia. By analyzing the diversity of terms, the significance of weaving techniques, clothing as a symbol of identity, and the influence of foreign lexicon, the study enriches our understanding of how textiles played a vital role in the daily lives and cultural expressions of the people in this historical region. Ultimately, the discussion fosters an appreciation for the intricate relationship between language, culture, and materiality in ancient Khotan.
Original source:
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H. W. Bailey
Acta Orientalia:
(Founded in 1922 and published annually)
Full text available for: Vasta
Year: 1966 | Doi: 10.5617/ao.5229
Copyright (license): CC BY 4.0
Download the PDF file of the original publication
FAQ section (important questions/answers):
What is the significance of textiles in Khotan's historical texts?
Textiles are frequently mentioned in Khotan's historical texts, reflecting their importance in Buddhist Central Asia. They provide insights into the clothing practices and materials valued in the region up to around 1000 A.D.
How is the term 'urana' related to coverings in Khotanese?
The term 'urana' likely originates from the root 'var-' meaning 'to cover'. It appears in texts indicating that different types of coverings were gathered in important settings like the Inner Office.
What does the term 'kaumadai' refer to in the Khotanese context?
'Kaumadai' refers to 'trousers' in Khotanese, indicated in various documents. It is associated with measurements in cloth and may share origins with cognates in surrounding languages.
What role does 'khapa' play in Khotanese fabric terminology?
'Khapa' appears in classifications of clothing, suggesting variations or styles of mantles. Its phonetic similarity to terms in other languages indicates potential cultural exchanges.
What does 'pamuha' signify regarding clothing in Khotan's texts?
The term 'pamuha' frequently denotes clothing in various documents, highlighting types of garments and their cultural significance. It also shows a link with a verb meaning 'to put on'.
What does 'khauska' refer to in the context of Khotanese clothing?
'Khauska' is a type of cloth or covering, as evidenced in Khotanese texts. It illustrates the use of textiles in various applications, linking to the broader textile terminology.
How does 'pvaica' relate to clothing materials described in Khotanese records?
The term 'pvaica' is used in conjunction with coverings and clothing, denoting various types of fabric. Its etymology suggests connections to other Indo-Iranian languages.
Glossary definitions and references:
Oriental and Historical glossary list for “Textile Terminology in Khotanese: A Study of Dress and Equipment”. This list explains important keywords that occur in this article and links it to the glossary for a better understanding of that concept in the context of History, Linguistics, Religion, Philosophy, Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism etc.
1) Cloth:
Cloth (see 'p.1 dress' and various entries) refers to fabric materials such as thauna- (item 16).
2) Hada:
'Hada' (entry 37) is a term used in texts, meaning covering or garment, found in manuscripts and measured in feet.
3) Pali (Palin):
Pali (mentioned in various entries), similar to H. Lüders' discussion of textiles, reflects the Prakritic languages and Buddhist scripture terminologies.
4) Wool:
Wool (entry 73) is referred to with the word pema-, having connections to the sources of raw wool materials.
5) Iron:
Iron (entry 38) is part of the word aysira, meaning ‘armour’ from the base *(z)arya- ‘to cover’ and is included in discussions of equipment.
6) White:
White (entry 35, saci) signifies the color of cloth, like saca 'pieces of white silk' mentioned in the discussions of various equipment and garments.
7) Civara:
Civara (entry 53) represents a divine robe or vestment in Buddhist Sanskrit sources, with references in Vajrayana texts.
8) Saci (Shaci):
'Saci' (entry 35) refers to 'piece of cloth', often silk, used in different contexts for making trousers or other garments.
9) Cotton:
Cotton (entry 69, kapäysa) noted as a material, used in making cloth, threads, and derived from sources like cotton plants.
10) Maula:
Maula (entry 56) refers to a 'headdress,' and is linked to translations and loan words from Pkt to BS mauli-.
11) Cham:
[see source text or glossary: Cham]
12) Vastra:
Vastra (entry 34) signifies 'clothing' or garments in texts, related to the description of attire and its differentiation from Prakrit or Pali forms.
13) Dress:
Dress (see 'p.1 dress' section and entries) relates to terms like khausa (entry 10), used to denote various forms of attire and textiles in the discussed regions.
14) Dasa (Dashan, Dasha, Dasan):
Dasa (entry 17) translates to 'thread', and is frequently applied in descriptions of clothing and textile creation.
15) Arta (Arita, Aritá):
Arta (entry 37, hada) appears in the context of Georgian and Armenian covering terms, such as ardag and artaxourak.
16) Foot (Feet):
Feet (entry 37) used in regard to measurements, like hada measured in cha (feet equivalent).
17) Tibetan:
Tibetan (entry 7, khoca and entry 47, hura) language is used in translation references, giving insight into the alternate terms for these garments.
18) Silver:
Silver (entry 7, khoca) appears in the context of decorations within dress items, specifically in references involving C 29 pieces.
19) Vana:
Vana (entry 33) refers to textiles or certain garments/items bought, often seen paired with pamuha 'clothes'.
20) Bida:
Bida (entry 19) is connected to covering or garment terms, indicating glossed 'bag' or 'envelope' translations in various contexts.
21) Raha:
Raha (entry 31) stands for 'clothes', with derivations and Prakrit connections related to garments.
22) Hura (Hurâ):
Hura (entry 47) describes a 'belt or scarf', emphasized as a garment feature in Buddhist imagery and religious garb descriptions.
23) Gold (Golden):
Golden (entry 29, ysaratlasam) used as in 'covered with gold-threaded mantle' highlighting textile described.
24) Necklace:
Necklace (entry 56, maula) is part of an entry where 'headdresses, hara-necks' and other ornaments are described.
25) Buddhism (Buddhist tradition):
Buddhist (entry 1) indicates texts from Buddhist Central Asia featuring descriptions of attire and materials.
26) Garment:
Garment (entry 23, prahone) is a broad term used for clothing, often in religious ritual contexts.
27) Leather:
Leather (entry 40, kaga) refers to animal skins used as material in making specific garments like wolf skin.
28) Padaka:
Padaka (entry 20) signifies 'covering garments', especially seen in sacramental or practical uses like envelopes.
29) Needle:
Needle (entry 36, suj'inakirta) means needle-work and relates to the crafting of clothing and textiles.
30) Jaina:
Jaina (entry 50, kasaya-vastra) indicates terms from Jaina texts such as dietary or garments references.
31) Jewel:
Jewel (entry 6, khä) often mentioned with clothing and robes, highlighting adorned apparel.
32) Phra:
[see source text or glossary: Phra]
33) Shaka (Saka):
Saka (title page) relates to the language of the Khotan region used in texts discussing attire.
34) Kaga:
'Kaga' (entry 40) refers to 'skin,' often of animals like wolf or deer, used as material in dress.
35) Hemp:
Hemp (entry 70, kamha) as material noted in making fabrics and discussed in several contexts.
36) Silk:
'Silk' (entry 16, thauna) describes textile materials, important for clothing and spiritual garments.
37) Language:
Language (title) refers to the study of Gostana-desa, Khotan region language texts focusing on dress.
38) Dharani (Dharanimamdala):
[see source text or glossary: Dharani]
39) Desana (Deshana):
Desana (entry 3) mentions terms found in Dešana documents, including dress items like kaimeja.
40) Kadara:
[see source text or glossary: Kadara]
41) Satera (Shatera):
[see source text or glossary: Satera]
42) Sutra:
[see source text or glossary: Sutra]
43) Patra:
[see source text or glossary: Patra]
44) Linen:
Linen (entry 71, kumbä) pertains to materials like flax from which linen cloth is made.
45) Sheep:
[see source text or glossary: Sheep]
46) King:
[see source text or glossary: King]
47) Book:
Book (entry 54, thavalaka) pertains to bags or coverings meant specifically for holding books.
48) Goat:
Goat (entry 74, buģinai) reflects a mistaken interpretation from the possibly intended term for cloth like byssus.
49) Kashayavastra (Kasayavastra, Kashaya-vastra):
Kasaya-vastra (entry 50) refers to a type of Buddhist monastic attire, distinctive in practice.
50) Knowledge:
[Knowledge (entry 56, maula) mentions coverings with the mūla-headdress of knowledge.]
51) Water-jar (Water-pot):
Water-pot (entry 19, paha) references containers used alongside bags or coverings in religious terms.
52) Spiritual:
Spiritual (entry 38, aysira) highlights the metaphorical use of armour terms in spiritual contexts.
53) Shoulder:
[see source text or glossary: Shoulder]
54) Sanskrit:
Sanskrit (see definition of Buddhist) refers to the scriptural languages portraying Buddhist Central Asia.
55) Candana (Camdana):
Candana (entry 37, hada) refers to perfumed garments related to the name Candane, with inherent incense qualities.
56) Upasaka (Upashaka):
[see source text or glossary: Upasaka]
57) Prakrit (Prakrt):
Prakrit (title) appears frequently, signifying the broader linguistic roots and translations in text examples.
58) Suvarna:
[see source text or glossary: Suvarna]
59) Mamdula (Mandula):
[Mandula is compared with cognates like BS mandurakam, relating to coverings and textiles.]
60) Lexicon:
Lexicon (title) refers to the detailed discussion and listing of terms pertaining to garment terminology.
61) Buddha:
Buddha (entry 22, prrastharmada) indicates the relics or honored images connected to garments and textiles in rituals.
62) Svarna:
[see source text or glossary: Svarna]
63) Turaka:
[see source text or glossary: Turaka]
64) Kashaya (Kasaya):
Kasaya (entry 50) outlines the red robe worn by monks and other religious practitioners in Buddhist texts.
65) Weapon:
[see source text or glossary: Weapon]
66) Wisdom:
Wisdom (entry 38, aysira) related to armour as a spiritual symbol in texts.
67) Shield:
[see source text or glossary: Shield]
68) Mauli (Maulin):
Mauli (entry 56, Maula) suggests a headdress or crown, expressing protective or noble attire.
69) Banda (Bamda):
Banda (entry 39, urabada) highlights terms like 'belt' from ra 'belly' and banda relations.
70) Kamra:
Kamra (entry 40, kaga) describes animal skins, kamra meaning sheep in this context.
71) Kaura:
Kaura (entry 40, kaga) identifies 'sheep', evident in textile production references.
72) Thuda:
Thuda (entry 10) refers to thuda-pa, a fur coat derived from terms in regional dictionaries.
73) Horse:
Horse (entry 42, nyürra) signifies harnesses specifically related to horse equipment in texts.
74) Sword:
Sword (entry 45, kadara) discusses ascribing meanings to swords (:k) based off suffixes within textile terms.
75) House:
House (title) references domana- in the introduction as part of derivational suffixes regarding structures.
[Note: The above list is limited to 75. Total glossary definitions available: 160]