Pallava period (Social and Cultural History)

by S. Krishnamurthy | 2017 | 143,765 words

This study examines the Social and Cultural History of the Pallava period (as gleaned through the Sculptural Art). The Pallavas (6th-9th century A.D.) mainly ruled over the Tondaimandalam (Tondai Nadu) region in the Northern part of Tamil Nadu (South-India). The Pallava dynasty ensured a golden age of architecture, arts, and spirituality and while ...

Kesapatta (a band or cord used to bind the tuft of hair)

Primarily a kesapatta is a string or band used to bind the tuft of hair, which are gathered together to form a mass, either at the top of the head or to the side or at the back. It can be seen as a simple cord without any ornamental additions in the Govardhanadhari panel at Mamallapuram on the head of the cowherd (fig. 174) as well as binding the tuft of the man playing flute. Similarly the ribbon like festoons seen hanging by the side of the hair-do of a male and female dancer (fig. 166) in the Thantonrisvara temple at Kanchipuram as well as from the head of the Vidhyadharas carved on the larger Bhagiratha bas-relief panel at Mamallapuram could be a form of kesapatta used for binding their locks into spiral form above their head. Assessing from their appearance and the way they are shown flying, these festoons could have been probably made of muslin or silk. The kesapatta around the jatamakuta of a devotee (fig. 165) kneeling to the left side of Gangadhara in the panel of Lalitankura-pallavesvara-griham at Tiruchirappalli is seen having additionally a flower in its centre. It could be an original flower or a cast medallion. Another depiction of such a floral ornament as a kesapatta can be seen adorning the head of a Gana (fig. 175) having curly hairs in the Mahishasuramardini panel in the cave temple at Mamallapuram. In this case, a glance at the floral medallion gives enough support to claim that it is not a natural flower, but indeed a medallion, formed probably of precious stones set into a metal blank.

A more ornamental variety can be seen worn by the two devotees (fig. 170) kneeling on either side of Vishnu in Trimurti cave temple at Mamallapuram. It is in the form of a band with a circular medallion in the middle having a pear shaped bejeweled embellishment projecting above (fig. 473 and 474). Another ornamental variety can be seen adorning the jatamakuta of a male figure seen in fallen position by the side of Mahishasura (fig. 207 and 477) in the Mahishasuramardini panel cave temple at Mamallapuram. Here the kesapatta is topped by a medallion consisting of two parts. The lower part is in the form of a band having a square gem in the middle flanked by makara motifs and the upper part is in the form of an arch with petal like designs on its edges. Another ornamental type can be seen adorning the tuft of Rathi in the Sundaravarada-perumal temple at Uttiramerur. Here she is shown wearing a kesapatta having petal like appendages surrounding the tuft.

Sometimes, the kesapatta seems to have beaded additions in the form of tassels, which are used to decorate the tuft of hair as well (fig. 478). Such a decor can be seen in a panel (upper row) on the northern cloister wall of the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram. Here a male figure (fig. 177) seated on the ground in front of the king with hands in anjali is shown with his sikhanda tied using ornamental chain formed of pearls or beads. Similarly the female chauri bearers (fig. 203) flanking the niche enshrining Durga on the northern wall of the mandapa preceding the Kailasanatha temple at Kanchipuram also displays such an ornamentation of the coiffure. Here the interesting part is that the coiffure is also most enchantingly modeled in trifoliate form and running all along its edge such beaded decor can be noticed.

Apart from the cord type of kesapatta, which is seen so far, it was also used in the form of a broad band. This type can be seen in the later Pallava temple of Pundarikaksha-perumal at Tiruvellarai. Here the adhisthana portion on its gala part has a miniature depiction of Krishna in the act of killing Bakasura (fig. 206) and He is shown with His tuft tied using a broad band, leaving ample space between the head and the sikhanda.

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