Head-dress of Men (Turban)

[Full title: Head-dress of Men during the Pallava period: Turban]

Turban as a head-dress had its origin out of a necessity. It is a fact that people in villages even now use a lengthy cloth and wound it around their head, primarily as a protective measure against the extreme heat caused by the rays emitting from the Sun. Sculptural depiction of this can be seen in the Govardhanadhari panel at Mamallapuram. In this panel, the man standing by the side of Balarama with folded hands, binds a cloth around his head in a careless or hurried manner. This image can be regarded as a reflection of a typical man in a village. Such a usage with practicable purpose, in course of centuries had become habitual and saw its development and transformation into a distinguished head-dress attached with prestige and honor. Whereas the rich or upper-class had probably worn turbans made of silk or fine muslin, embellished with various ornamental flourishes, the common people would have used simple cotton cloth without any decorations. The Govardhanadhari panel at Mamallapuram and the historical panels adorning the wall of the cloister mandapa in the Vaikunthaperuma/l temple at Kanchipuram, depict various methods of tying a turban and consequently its shape also differs. Identification of a turban in sculptural art is based only on its shape and there is a possibility of them being elaborate head-dress having ornamental designs formed of chain of pearls, beads, precious stones and metals. In many cases, the method of tying a turban is not known from sculptural art and it is possible that they were worn like a crown. Normally, a turbans has the shape of a circular base with a convex profile and its top portion may be either flat or bulged out or dipped in or even conical, either short or long.

The various forms of turban as known through the sculptures of this period are as following:

A circular turban with a short conical top

This type can be seen worn by a kneeling figure to the right of Durga in the Varaha-mandapa at Mamallapuram. However, it may also be karanda-makuta as can be seen from similar figures in other Durga panels. In many cases it is difficult to exactly identify the conical head-dress to be either a turban or karanda-makuta, except in case, where the folds of the cloth is shown, as depicted on a male figure seated on an elephant (fig. 143) in a panel (lower row) on the northern cloister wall of the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram.

Similar type, but with many ornamental flourishes can be seen worn by the king and his ministers or chieftains in the panels (fig. 144) adorning the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram.

A circular turban with a flat top

In a panel (lower row) on the northern cloister wall of the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram, a minister or chieftain (fig. 145 and 469), standing and viewing the coronation ceremony of the king is seen with a turban of this type. Similar type is again seen worn by a dwarf, holding a shield in his hand from Kaveripakkam^[1]. However, he has in addition a band with a circular medallion in the middle, fastened around it.

A short cylindrical cap like turban

A person (fig. 146), shown as being embraced by the king in a panel (upper row) on the eastern cloister wall of the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram is shown with a turban of this type. In this depiction, the turban is in the form of a short cylindrical cap having a flat top and a tassel can also be seen hanging in its front.

An oblong turban with drooping sides

The male dancing figure in the Govardhanadhari panel at Mamallapuram (fig. 147), is shown with a turban of this king. In this, the turban which is oblong in shape, with drooping sides has a slight dip on the top middle portion.

A circular turban with bulged top

Turban of this kind can be seen worn by a man with an axe resting on his shoulder in the same panel as above (fig. 148). In both the cases, the turban need not be an especially tailor made one and they can be regarded as a simple cloth tied around the head in different ways.

A rare instance of the method employed in tying the turban can be found from the bas-relief of a minister or a chieftain (fig. 149) standing by the side of the king in a panel (lower row) on the northern cloister wall of the Vaikunthaperumal temple at Kanchipuram. He seems to have folded a long piece of cloth cross-wise over his head and the ends of it are seen projecting above in the form of two knobs. It is of further interest to see that the cloth has ornamental designs in the form of series of checks or diamonds. Another instance of tying a turban can be seen from an another panel on the same wall. Here two men seated on an elephant (fig. 150) are shown with their turban tied around their head in a crosswise manner with one end of it projecting in the form of a cone. Many such similar method of tying a turban can be seen on close observation in these panels.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Now kept in Govt. Museum, Chennai, Acc. No. 112-6/38.