3. Ornaments for Different Occasions

Every religious ceremony needs some sort of ornament. Their variety or pattern depends on the occasion at which it is worn.

At the initiation ceremony, a child should wear a golden thread across the chest. Later this chain is replaced by a cotton thread. A sanctified finger ring called Pavitri also is prescribed for this purpose^[1].

At the Samāvartana, the ornaments worn by a Snātaka include earrings, neck ornaments made of gold inlaid with pellets of sandal wood or Bhadra and armlet for left arm made out of the aforesaid material^[2]. Scentless wreaths are not permitted for a Snātaka^[3]. Marriage is the only occasion, where lots of ornaments were worn. The custom of decorating ladies with all sorts of ornaments on the occasion of marriage was prevalent in India since Vedic times. A happily married woman is identified with the garland she wears on the neck. This garland is known by several names. Sometimes it is in the form of a thread, which is known as Maṅgalasūtra. In Harṣacarita, Harṣa’s mother is described as wearing a red thread round her neck^[4]. Vāmanapurāṇa calls this garland by the name Vaivāhī^[5], while in Mudrārākṣasa, it is called Varasyamālā^[6]. In Svapnavāsavadatta^[7], the wedding garland prepared for Padmāvatī is referred to as Kautukamālā, which is made out of flowers and herbs. These herbs described there have the power to prevent all sorts of diseases. From this it can be inferred that the wedding garland of any kind is auspicious. Garland made of inauspicious flowers like Nalada is meant for a dead person^[8]. For the same reason, garlands of such flowers are not allowed for a sacrificer observing Vājapeya, but he may have gold chains. A silver Niṣka is prescribed for Vrātyas who perform Vrātyaṣṭhoma^[9]. It is considered an impropriety to wear luxury ornaments on the occasion of mourning. In Harṣacarita it is described that at the funeral of his father, Rājyavardhana replaced his sapphire inlaid earring by a sanctified ordinary ring^[10]. Usually hermit ladies, call girls and grief stricken wear no ornaments. Bharata recommends light weight ornaments for actors in a dramatic performance, in order to avoid fatigue in the actors caused by heavy ornaments. For this purpose, thin and coloured metal sheets, bees wax and lac were used. They resemble the real one. Ornaments were given as gift at the performance of sacrifices. Birth of a child, marriage etc. also are occasions, when ornaments were given as gift to the Brāhmaṇas. Matsyapurāṇa records the marriage of the king Dama, where the objects presented by his father in law include ornaments^[11]. Vātsyāyana make allusions to kings and high dignitaries decked with all sorts of ornaments at the time of visiting their queens. Similarly, Nāgarakas going to the club or gardens and ladies going to meet their husband also are described beautifying their body with several ornaments^[12].