2.4. Various other Neck Ornaments

In addition to the above mentioned, some other neck ornaments are—(1) Niṣka, (2) Rukma, (3) Maṇisṛṅka, (4) Sraja, (5) Maṅgasūtra, (6) Kaṇṭhikā, (7) Kaṇṭhasūtraka, (8) Yoktraka, (9) Suvarṇasūtra, (10) Hemasūtra, (11) Tapanīyasūtra, (12) Ekāvalī, (13) Rucaka, (14) Prālambabhogabhūṣṇa, (15) Graiveyaka, (16) Prakaṇṭhaka, (17) Ratnāvalī, (18) Prālamba, (19) Lambana, (20) Uraḥsūtra, (21) Skandamālā, (22) Jālaka, (23) Kaustubha, (24) Ataka, (25) Muktāvalī, (26) Harṣaka, (27) Sūtraka, (28) Vyālapaṅktimañjarī, (29) Śṛṅgalikā, (30) Maṇijāla, (31) Kaṇṭhasūtra, (32) Lambasūtra, (33) Cāmīkarakaṇṭhasūtrikā, (34) Maṇīsanāthagalasūtra, (35) Vaikakṣika, (36) Hārasūtra, (37) Māṅgalya, (38) Cannavīra, (39) Avakāṭaka, (40) Śīrṣaka, (41) Taralapratibandha, (42) Lambābharaṇa, (43) Upaśīrṣaka, (44) Trivalī, (45) Pañcavalī, (46) Bandhura, (47) Apavartaka, (48) Śuddhahāra, (49) Brahmasūtra and (50) Sthagara. Of these, Niṣka was worn round the neck. It was made of silver and gold. The epithet Niṣkagrīva frequently occurs in Ṛgveda^[1] . There is a reference to Vrātyas wearing silver Niṣka in Pañcaviṃśa-brāhmaṇa^[2].

Vālmīki also talks about Niṣka. In the description of the Ayodhyā, it is pointed out that every inhabitant there wore Aṅgada and Niṣka—

[...],^[3]

Rukma was in the form of a plate or disc, hanging from the neck in a cord as a Pendant. The epithet Rukmavakṣas denotes one wearing a Rukma on the chest as an ornament. Maṇi was an armlet like ornament worn round the neck, with the aid of a woollen or cotton cord. Ṛgveda frequently refers to deities with the epithet Maṇigrīva^[4]. In one context, the followers of Vṛtra are described as adorned with jewels^[5]. Sraja was either a flower garland or a gold lace wrought into flowers, usually worn by men. Maṅgalasūtra, as its name indicates is an auspicious thread. Whether it was made of thread or metal is not specified. It is meant for ladies. Kaṇṭhikā and Kaṇṭhasūtraka are referred to in Skandapurāṇa as female ornaments^[6]. Sometimes it is set with rubies or emerald. Yoktraka is similar to Kaṇṭhasūtraka. It is also worn by ladies, which is mentioned by Aśvaghoṣa^[7]. Suvarṇasūtra, Hemasūtra and Tapanīyasūtra are the names of a simple gold chain. Sometimes it consists of a precious stone at the centre. Kālidāsa refers to such a chain.

Ekāvalī is a necklace of one string of pearls. Sometimes it is adorned with a gem at the centre. Daṇḍi refers to a highly priced and highly lustrous Ekāvalī. This necklace there described was able to brighten the royal court^[8]. Rucaka is described by Patañjali as a gold necklace^[9]. But a ruby studded Rucaka is mentioned by Daṇḍi^[10]. Prālambabhogabhūṣṇa is similar to Śeṣahāra of Bāṇa^[11]. Graiveyaka is perhaps a tight necklace, which is mentioned in Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa, Aṣṭādhyāyī, Amarakośa and Purāṇas^[12]. Prakaṇṭhaka is a one stringed pearl necklace with a big pearl in the centre, while other pearls are of gradually decreasing size. Ratnāvalī as the name suggests is made of jewels. Prālamba is a long garland made of flower or metals. Lambana is a long garland with floral designs. Uraḥsūtra, Skandamālā, Jālaka and Kaustubha are seen displayed in the images of deities. Of these Kaustubha is specially seen for Viṣṇu^[13]. Muktāvalī is a pearl necklace. Bharata recommends it for male characters, royal as well as divines^[14]. Agnipurāṇa^[15] also refers to it. In Raghuvaṃśa, Muktāvalī with 108 strands of pearls is described^[16]. Harṣaka is in the shape of a snake. Bharata prescribes it for male actors. Sūtraka is a simple gold chain with one or more than one string, for men and women. It is also known by the names Dvisara, Trisara and Catussara on the basis of the number of strings. Trisara is mentioned in Nāṭyaśāstra in connection with male characters. Śṛṅgalikā as the name suggests, consists of several links. Maṇijāla is a net of jewels. Kaṇṭhasūtra is perhaps a chain worn close to the neck, while Lambasūtra is a long chain. Cāmīkarakaṇṭhasūtrikā is a gold chain. Precious stones studded on a gold chain were called Maṇīsanāthagalasūtra. Vaikakṣika looks like a Yajñopavīta and is worn across the chest^[17]. Hārasūtra is a loose and long garland. Māṅgalya is meant especially for ladies. Cannavīra has a pair of chains; when it is worn, it looks like two Yajñopavītas crossing each other at the centre of the chest. In Avakāṭaka and Śīrṣaka, the sizes of pearls or beeds are equal. Taralapratibandha is a pearl necklace having a big pearl at the centre. Lambābharaṇa is mentioned in Purāṇas^[18]. Sometimes it is similar to Prālamba. Upaśīrṣaka has five bigger pearls in the centre in equal size. Trivalī and Pañcavalī are pearl necklaces of three and five strings respectively. Bhandura is a pearl necklace with a jewel studded pendant designed like a lions face. Apavartaka is interspersed with gold beeds. Śuddhahāra is similar to Śīrṣaka. Brahmasūtra is a long gold necklace. It is also made of pearls having more than five strings.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

II.33.10,VII.47.15

[2]:

43.86

[3]:

V.43.12,VI.44.22, 55.5

[4]:

I.122.14

[5]:

X.85.6,8

[6]:

V.3.106.15

[7]:

Saundarananda, V.3; Buddhacarita, v.55,VIII.22

[8]:

SCTD, p.267

[9]:

I.1.1,16

[10]:

Daśakumāracarita

[11]:

SCTD, p.268; NTAIS, p.88

[12]:

Aṣṭādhyāyī, IV.2.95; Amarakośa, 2.6.106; Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa, III.67.27

[13]:

Bhāgavatapurāṇa, 10.70.11,11.27.27

[14]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, 116-120,140-143

[15]:

111-112

[16]:

Raghuvaṃśa, 16.43

[17]:

Amarakośa, 2.6.130

[18]:

Matsyapurāṇa, 176.56