2.2. Various other Ear Ornaments

In addition to Kuṇḍala, a number of other words are also used to indicate ear ornaments. They are–(1) Karṇaśobhana, (2) Pravarta, (3) Pravartya, (4) Prāvepa, (5) Prākāśa, (6) Sucakra, (7) Hiraṇyakarṇas, (8) Karṇaveṣṭana, (9) Karṇikā, (10) Patrakarṇikā, (11) Maṇikarṇikā, (12) Ratnakarṇikā, (13) Dantapatra, (14) Tālīpatra, (15) Tālajapatra, (16) Tālipaṭṭa, (17) Tālapatra, (18) Karṇapūra, (19) Maṇikarṇapūra, (20) Ratnakarṇapūra, (21) Avataṃsa, (22) Tāṭaṅka, (23) Trikaṇṭaka, (24) Mocaka, (25) Kīla, (26) Karṇamudra, (27) Karṇāṅguli, (28) Muktāphala, (29) Patraveṣṭa, (30) Karṇotkīlaka, (31) Śikhipatra, (32) Karṇotpala, (33) Karṇakuvalaya, (34) Kanakanāḍī, (35) Muktātāṭaka, (36) Vajragarbha, (37) Śvadaṃṣṭrā, (38) Karṇottaṃsa, (39) Karṇabhūṣaṇa, (40) Pūrṇamadhya, (41) Daṇḍaka, (42) Cūḍībhūṣaṇa, (43) Mukula, (44) Maṇḍana, (45) Cakra, (46) Citraśravaṇābharaṇa, (47) Pavitri, (48) Campakakalikā, (49) Karṇavalaya, (50) Trikarṇa, (51) Śroṇīsūtra and (52) Karṇacūlikā.

Of these, the first seven are mentioned in Vedic texts^[1]. Since the term Pravarta has its origin in the root Vṛt which means encircle, it is supposed to be in the shape of a ring. From the term Hiraṇyakarṇas it is believed that it was made of gold. Similarly Sucakra is perhaps wheel shaped. Karṇaveṣṭana is an ear-top that covers the entire lob of the ear. Karṇikā is supposed to be an ornament resembling the middle portion of a flower, for the term Karṇikā stands for the central part of a flower. It is said to be worn on the top portion of the ear. Agnipurāṇa and Nāṭyaśāstra prescribe it for ladies^[2]. Pāṇini also referred to it^[3]. Sometimes it was bejewelled. Bāṇa and Daṇḍi give information about Patrakarṇikā, Makarakarṇikā and Ratnakarṇikā^[4]. Patrakarṇikā is for ladies. Dantapatra is an ear-leaf fashioned from ivory. Usually it is an upper ear ornament and is crescent shaped with edges, looking like teeth of a saw. Plain as well as bejewelled types are seen. From the word Avasātakadantapatra it can be inferred that this ornament is clipped on to the ear. In Śiśupālavadha^[5] it is referred to as Dantapatrikā. Dhavaladantapatra is a common expression: Tālīpatra is designed like a palm leaf. Tālajapatra, Tālipaṭṭa and Tālapatra are some of its variants. A Tālīpatra made of gold is indicated by the terms Kanakapatra or Hematālīpatra. Kanakapatra was an ear ornament for ladies. From the term Karṇapūra it can be inferred that it is an ornament that covers the entire ear. Usually it is modeled after lotus flower. Bejewelled variety was also in use. Maṇikarṇikā and Ratnakarṇikā are often mentioned by Bāṇa^[6]. In the context of Pradoṣavarṇana in Kādambarī, a Karṇapūra raktotpala is mentioned, which perhaps indicates a lotus shaped Karṇapūra with settings of ruby on it^[7]. Similarly a Karṇapūra, inlaid with sapphire, resembling a blue lotus is mentioned by Māgha^[8]. Bharata refers to this ornament worn by ladies^[9]. Kālidāsa makes plenty of references to Karṇapūra^[10]. Avataṃsa is made of sprouts. Sprouts of Tamāla, mango and Ketaka were used as Avataṃsa. It was even a bridal ornament. In Harṣacarita, Rājyaśrī is described as wearing an Avataṃsa on the occasion of her marriage^[11]. Tāṭaṅka is an ear drop dangling upto the cheek, used by both the sexes. Trikaṇṭaka is mentioned by Bāṇa in many places^[12]. From his description it is evident that it was an ornament used equally by men and women and is set with emerald between two pearls. Dadhīci, a young man and Bhaṇḍi, a maternal cousin of Harṣa and the royal ladies celebrating the birth of Harṣa are described as wearing Trikaṇṭaka. Mocaka and Kīla^[13] are meant for men and are worn in the middle and top portion of the ear respectively. Karṇamudra and Karṇāṅguli as their name indicates may have perhaps been ring shaped. Muktāphalapatraveṣṭa is an ear leaf made of pearls. Karṇotkīlaka is an ear top. Śikhipatra is formed by setting gems of various colours, so as to make a look of peacock feather. Karṇotpala and Karṇakuvalaya are imitations of lotus. Kanakanāḍī is a tube shaped ornament fashioned in gold. Vajragarbha is formed by embedding a diamond in the centre. Śvadaṃṣṭra is referred to by Vātmīki^[14]. Perhaps it might have been in the shape of a dog’s teeth. Daṇḍaka is a circular ornament. Pavitri is sanctified by the recitation of Vedic hymns. It is described in Harṣacarita that during the funeral of his father, Rājyavardhana replaced his sapphire studded ear ring by a Pavitri^[15]. Trikarṇa is mentioned in Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa. Perhaps it comprised of three rings.

More than one ornament could be worn in the same ear. Kādambarī is said to be wearing Tālīpatra, Kuṇḍala and Karṇotpala^[16]. Sometimes, ear ornaments were worn only on one ear. For instance the Mātaṅgakanyā, who arrives at the court of Śūdraka wears a Dantapatra only on one ear^[17]. Another interesting feature was that different sorts of ear ornaments could be worn on each ear. Thus Bhaṇḍi is described by Bāṇa as wearing different sorts of ornaments in each ear^[18]. In Harṣacarita, Bāṇa describes Mālatī as wearing four ear ornaments. In both the ears, she wore a pair of Kuṇḍala. Besides this, she wore in her right ear a green Ketakī bud and in the left ear she wore a Dantapatra of bluish shade^[19].