Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Head Ornaments (b): Mukuta or Makuta’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
2.1. Head Ornaments (b): Mukuṭa or Makuṭa
Mukuṭa, otherwise known as Makuṭa, is a crown, fixed above the forehead. It is usually of gold and sometimes set with gems or pearls. Most of its description in the literature is found in connection with men. It was worn by king and common people alike and is displayed in the images of gods.
In Atharvaveda[1], there is a reference to Mukuṭa, having horn like parts on it.
Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa and Mahābhārata also depict kings and ordinary people wearing Mukuṭa. Rāvaṇā’s Mukuṭa, described by Vātmīki was made of gold with pearl settings on it[3]. Reference to Rākṣasas wearing Mukuṭa is seen in Mahābhārata[5]. There in one place, a ruler wearing Mukuṭa with a gem on its top is portrayed. Such a crown was known as Mukuṭamaṇi[7].
Use of Mukuṭa is cited in Bhāgavatapurāṇa and Skandapurāṇa[8].
According to Bharata, a Mukuṭa is of three types in accordance with the rank of the people[9].
Bhāsa and Kālidāsa use some words like Mukuṭājāla, Mukuṭaguṇa which either indicates the crown inlaid with jewels or the locks of hair shaped like Mukuṭa[10].
Bṛhatsaṃhitā makes reference to diamond studded Mukuṭa worn by the kings[11].
Śekharamukuṭa and Āmalasāramukuṭa were especially meant for kings. Hindu arts and iconography depicts deities like Śiva, Viṣṇu and Brahma with Mukuṭa. Jaṭāmukuṭa and Karaṇḍamukuṭa are associated with Śiva. But whether it is a crown or a hair style is not specified.[12]
Kirīṭamakuṭa:
Though Kirīṭa and Makuṭa are different, in some places these two words are seen used jointly to denote crown. Rāmabhadra Ojha, in his article entitled Kirīṭamakuṭa, discusses this matter elaborately[2]. This term is also used to indicate the crown of Śiva[4]. It is made by joining pieces of metals in conical shape with various designs carved on each piece. Its base is known as Lalāṭapattikā. Both scientific prescriptions and artistic genius are united in its making. In Bṛhatsaṃhitā, these two words are used in the same sense. These crowns were worn by Sūrya and Kubera[6].
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
9.4.17,19.36.2
[2]:
JORI, p.433
[3]:
I.6.11, V. 45.2, 5.18
[4]:
Bṛhatsaṃhitā, LVII.47, 57
[5]:
Cultural History from Vāyupurāṇa (CHVP), p.209
[6]:
Ibid
[7]:
Ibid
[8]:
Skandapurāṇa, VII.1.23.94; Bhāgavatapurāṇa, 10.59.38
[11]:
XLIII.25, LVII.47
[12]:
A Study of Hindu Art and Architecture (ASHAA), p.221