Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Materials (b): Pearl’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

1.2. Materials (b): Pearl

Pearl is a valued gem used for making ornaments and also to adorn other articles. The characteristics of a pearl are different according to its source. Some myths or traditional stories also are associated with its formation. The examination of the genuineness of pearls and several techniques for increasing its lustre were known to ancient Indians. Even though Pearls are used to make all sorts of ornaments, it is more popular with neck ornaments. The expression Tārahāra is common. A pearl is known by several names. Śukti, Muktā, Muktāphala, Muktāmaṇi and Tāra are some of them.

In Atharvaveda[1] it is stated that pearls are bones of gods.

According to Garuḍapurāṇa[2], pearls are got from eight places -conch shell, bamboo, cobra, boar, temples of elephants and from clouds. Of these, pearl produced from shell can be pricked while others are not apt for perforation. Those obtained from cobra, fish, boar and conch are auspicious; but have no lustre. Pearls originating from conch and temples of elephants are of least value. One wearing the pearl derived from cobra hood will be blessed with wealth, prosperity and even kingdom. It has the power to take away all sorts of pollution, poison, sorcery and taints. It is stated in Garuḍapurāṇa that the teeth of the demon Bala that fell into the shells were transformed into pearls. These shell born pearls are again divided into eight. They are Saiṃhalika (Siṃhala), Pāralaukika (The other world), Saurāṣṭrika (Surāṣtra), Tāmraparṇa (The river Tāmraparṇikā), Pāraśava, Pāṇḍya, Hāṭaka, Kauberika (Kubera) and Hemaka. About the mode of wearing a pearl, it is said that one should wear a big pearl glazing like a white glass. This pearl should be kept in mercury. Such a pearl threaded in a gold necklace is considered best for the body. To examine the genuineness of a pearl, it is stated that the lustre of a real pearl will not be subjected to any change when it is placed in a heated solution of oil and water and then being rubbed with barley grains and covered with a cloth. To increase the lusre of a pearl, it should be boiled first with the juice of Jambīra (Big lemon) and mercury and then with milk, water and wine respectively. For this purpose pearl is to be placed in a fish cavity, that is smeared with clay and should be subjected to boiling in a pot containing the above mentioned solutions.

In Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[3], three sources of pearls are described–Śukti (Pearl oyster), Śaṅkha (Conch shell) and Prakīrṇa (Flow of water). Besides these, pearls are categorised into ten according to the area from where they are excavated.

They are pointed out in the table given below.

Name Region
Tāmraparṇikā River Tāmraparṇi in Pāṇḍya country.
Pāṇḍyavāṭaka Mountain Malayakoṭi
Pāśikya River Pāśika in Pāṭalīputra
Kauleya River Kula in Siṃhabhūmi
Caurṇya River Cūrṇī in Kerala
Mahendra Seashore near Mahendra mountain.
Kārdimaka Kardama river in Iran.
Saṃtrāsīya River Sautrasi in Barbar country
Hrādiya Śrīkhaṇḍa lake in Barbar country
Haimavanta Mountain Himālaya


The quality of a pearl depends on its shape, colour and such other features. Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[4] describes the signs of good as well as imperfect pearls.

Thirteen varieties of substandard pearls are described in it. They are as follows.

Name Defect
Masūraka Shape of a lentil grain
Tripuṭaka Triangular in shape
Kūrmaka Tortoise shaped
Ardhacandra Design of a crescent
Kañcukita Thickly wrapped
Yamaka Two pearls joined together
Kartaka Busted
Kharaka Rough
Siktaka Speckled
Kāmaṇḍaluka Resembling the bowl of a sage
Śyāva Brown in colour
Nīla Blue coloured
Duroiddha Not pierced at the proper place


An excellent pearl according to Kauṭilya[5] will be radiant, heavy, huge, soft, round without a base, white and properly stabbed.

Bharata[6] suggests pearl ornaments for characters belonging to the mythical class such as Nāgī, Siddhā women, goddesses etc.

Kālidāsa[7] gives allusion to the pearl derived from the elephant temples. He also mentions plenty of pearls found in the region of river Tāṃraparṇi.

Pearls were in abundance in the country at the time of Aśvaghoṣa[8], for which evidence is found in his works. Reference to Ratnadvīpa perhaps points out that plenty of pearls were available there.

Amarakośa[9] gives the name Āsphoṭanī and Vaidhāṇika to the instrument used to penetrate a pearl.

In Bṛhatsaṃhitā[10], there is a separate section devoted to pearls in the chapter entitled Ratnaparīkṣā. The tables given below describe the different features of different pearls, pointed out by Varāhamihira.

[Based on the Region]

Region Characteristics
Siṃhala (Ceylon) Various shapes, lustrous, big, similar to swan in colour
Tāmraparṇi river (Madras state) Glossy, white with a red shade
Paraloka (Travankore area) Of various colours -Black, white, yellow, uneven, mixed with rock fragments
Surāṣtra (Kathiawad peninsula) Medium sized, butter coloured
Pāraśīka (Persia) Radiant, clear, weighty, precious.
Himālaya Light weight, double shaped, curd coloured
Pāṇḍyavāṭaka Very small, looks like neem fruit in shape and coriander seed in colour.
Kubera (A northern country) Lustrous, black and white, having proper size.


[Based on Different Sources]

Source Features
Elephant temples Various types and shapes, big, lustrous
Boar Costly, similar to moon in colour
Clouds Having brilliance of lightening
Serpents Blue hue
Bamboo Flat, looks like camphor or crystal
Conch Round, glossy, resembles moon
Fish Big, looks like a fish eye, precious, pure


On the basis of its colour, each pearl has a presiding deity. The table given below describes it.

Colour Deity
Resembling Aṭaśī flower Viṣṇu
Colour of moon Indra
Yellow orpiment Varuṇa
Black Yama
Similar to the seed of a ripe Dāḍimā or Guñjā Vāyu
Lotus coloured, lustre of a smoky fire Agni


Bṛhatsaṃhitā[11] describes some astrological phenomena in connection with the origin of pearls from the temples of elephant.

The price of a pearl is fixed not merely on the basis of its weight, its shape, size; colour and lustre also are some factors that determine its real value. Bṛhatsaṃhitā charts out the prices of pearl.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

IX.33

[2]:

I.69.2, 3, 10, 11,12, 14, 16, 23, 35, 3738, 39

[3]:

DAOAI, p.140

[4]:

Ibid

[5]:

Ibid

[6]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.56-76

[7]:

Raghuvaṃśa, IV

[8]:

Saundarananda, XVI.98,VIII.50; Buddhacarita.12

[9]:

2.10.33

[10]:

LXXX.2-6, 9, 17-18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 28, 22, 27

[11]:

Ibid, 20-21

Like what you read? Consider supporting this website: