Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Materials (b): Pearl’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
1.2. Materials (b): Pearl
Pearl is a valued gem used for making ornaments and also to adorn other articles. The characteristics of a pearl are different according to its source. Some myths or traditional stories also are associated with its formation. The examination of the genuineness of pearls and several techniques for increasing its lustre were known to ancient Indians. Even though Pearls are used to make all sorts of ornaments, it is more popular with neck ornaments. The expression Tārahāra is common. A pearl is known by several names. Śukti, Muktā, Muktāphala, Muktāmaṇi and Tāra are some of them.
In Atharvaveda[1] it is stated that pearls are bones of gods.
According to Garuḍapurāṇa[2], pearls are got from eight places -conch shell, bamboo, cobra, boar, temples of elephants and from clouds. Of these, pearl produced from shell can be pricked while others are not apt for perforation. Those obtained from cobra, fish, boar and conch are auspicious; but have no lustre. Pearls originating from conch and temples of elephants are of least value. One wearing the pearl derived from cobra hood will be blessed with wealth, prosperity and even kingdom. It has the power to take away all sorts of pollution, poison, sorcery and taints. It is stated in Garuḍapurāṇa that the teeth of the demon Bala that fell into the shells were transformed into pearls. These shell born pearls are again divided into eight. They are Saiṃhalika (Siṃhala), Pāralaukika (The other world), Saurāṣṭrika (Surāṣtra), Tāmraparṇa (The river Tāmraparṇikā), Pāraśava, Pāṇḍya, Hāṭaka, Kauberika (Kubera) and Hemaka. About the mode of wearing a pearl, it is said that one should wear a big pearl glazing like a white glass. This pearl should be kept in mercury. Such a pearl threaded in a gold necklace is considered best for the body. To examine the genuineness of a pearl, it is stated that the lustre of a real pearl will not be subjected to any change when it is placed in a heated solution of oil and water and then being rubbed with barley grains and covered with a cloth. To increase the lusre of a pearl, it should be boiled first with the juice of Jambīra (Big lemon) and mercury and then with milk, water and wine respectively. For this purpose pearl is to be placed in a fish cavity, that is smeared with clay and should be subjected to boiling in a pot containing the above mentioned solutions.
In Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[3], three sources of pearls are described–Śukti (Pearl oyster), Śaṅkha (Conch shell) and Prakīrṇa (Flow of water). Besides these, pearls are categorised into ten according to the area from where they are excavated.
They are pointed out in the table given below.
Name | Region |
Tāmraparṇikā | River Tāmraparṇi in Pāṇḍya country. |
Pāṇḍyavāṭaka | Mountain Malayakoṭi |
Pāśikya | River Pāśika in Pāṭalīputra |
Kauleya | River Kula in Siṃhabhūmi |
Caurṇya | River Cūrṇī in Kerala |
Mahendra | Seashore near Mahendra mountain. |
Kārdimaka | Kardama river in Iran. |
Saṃtrāsīya | River Sautrasi in Barbar country |
Hrādiya | Śrīkhaṇḍa lake in Barbar country |
Haimavanta | Mountain Himālaya |
The quality of a pearl depends on its shape, colour and such other features. Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[4] describes the signs of good as well as imperfect pearls.
Thirteen varieties of substandard pearls are described in it. They are as follows.
Name | Defect |
Masūraka | Shape of a lentil grain |
Tripuṭaka | Triangular in shape |
Kūrmaka | Tortoise shaped |
Ardhacandra | Design of a crescent |
Kañcukita | Thickly wrapped |
Yamaka | Two pearls joined together |
Kartaka | Busted |
Kharaka | Rough |
Siktaka | Speckled |
Kāmaṇḍaluka | Resembling the bowl of a sage |
Śyāva | Brown in colour |
Nīla | Blue coloured |
Duroiddha | Not pierced at the proper place |
An excellent pearl according to Kauṭilya[5] will be radiant, heavy, huge, soft, round without a base, white and properly stabbed.
Bharata[6] suggests pearl ornaments for characters belonging to the mythical class such as Nāgī, Siddhā women, goddesses etc.
Kālidāsa[7] gives allusion to the pearl derived from the elephant temples. He also mentions plenty of pearls found in the region of river Tāṃraparṇi.
Pearls were in abundance in the country at the time of Aśvaghoṣa[8], for which evidence is found in his works. Reference to Ratnadvīpa perhaps points out that plenty of pearls were available there.
Amarakośa[9] gives the name Āsphoṭanī and Vaidhāṇika to the instrument used to penetrate a pearl.
In Bṛhatsaṃhitā[10], there is a separate section devoted to pearls in the chapter entitled Ratnaparīkṣā. The tables given below describe the different features of different pearls, pointed out by Varāhamihira.
[Based on the Region]
Region | Characteristics |
Siṃhala (Ceylon) | Various shapes, lustrous, big, similar to swan in colour |
Tāmraparṇi river (Madras state) | Glossy, white with a red shade |
Paraloka (Travankore area) | Of various colours -Black, white, yellow, uneven, mixed with rock fragments |
Surāṣtra (Kathiawad peninsula) | Medium sized, butter coloured |
Pāraśīka (Persia) | Radiant, clear, weighty, precious. |
Himālaya | Light weight, double shaped, curd coloured |
Pāṇḍyavāṭaka | Very small, looks like neem fruit in shape and coriander seed in colour. |
Kubera (A northern country) | Lustrous, black and white, having proper size. |
[Based on Different Sources]
Source | Features |
Elephant temples | Various types and shapes, big, lustrous |
Boar | Costly, similar to moon in colour |
Clouds | Having brilliance of lightening |
Serpents | Blue hue |
Bamboo | Flat, looks like camphor or crystal |
Conch | Round, glossy, resembles moon |
Fish | Big, looks like a fish eye, precious, pure |
On the basis of its colour, each pearl has a presiding deity. The table given below describes it.
Colour | Deity |
Resembling Aṭaśī flower | Viṣṇu |
Colour of moon | Indra |
Yellow orpiment | Varuṇa |
Black | Yama |
Similar to the seed of a ripe Dāḍimā or Guñjā | Vāyu |
Lotus coloured, lustre of a smoky fire | Agni |
Bṛhatsaṃhitā[11] describes some astrological phenomena in connection with the origin of pearls from the temples of elephant.
The price of a pearl is fixed not merely on the basis of its weight, its shape, size; colour and lustre also are some factors that determine its real value. Bṛhatsaṃhitā charts out the prices of pearl.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
IX.33
[2]:
I.69.2, 3, 10, 11,12, 14, 16, 23, 35, 3738, 39
[3]:
DAOAI, p.140
[4]:
Ibid
[5]:
Ibid
[6]:
Nāṭyaśāstra, XXI.56-76
[7]:
Raghuvaṃśa, IV
[8]:
Saundarananda, XVI.98,VIII.50; Buddhacarita.12
[9]:
2.10.33
[10]:
LXXX.2-6, 9, 17-18, 20, 21, 23, 24, 28, 22, 27
[11]:
Ibid, 20-21