Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Materials (a): Vajra (Diamond)’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
1.2. Materials (a): Vajra (Diamond)
Diamond is a hardest and highly priced gem used to make all sorts of ornaments. Purāṇas deal elaborately with diamond. Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra, Bṛhatsaṃhitā and Mānasollāsa also give a detailed account of diamond.
According to Garuḍapurāṇa[1], diamond is obtained from six sources and they differ in colour. The classification is as follows.
Source | Colour |
Veṇātatva | Red |
Sauvīra | Similar to dark cloud |
Kaliṅga | Colour of gold |
Kosala | Yellowish shade |
Puṇdra | Black |
Mātaṅga (Temple of elephant) | Dark yellow |
Regarding the signs of an excellent diamond, it is said that those that are very tiny, glossy, having equally softened sides and sharp ends, without any scratches, spots, dots, lines or marks are good. A diamond with all the above mentioned qualities is considered as the dwelling of deities. Even a minute damage of diamond is considered inauspicious. Diamonds of different colours are presided over by different deities. They are also associated with different Varṇas.
The tables given below explain it[2].
Colour | Deity |
Green | Viṣṇu |
White | Varuṇa |
Yellow | Indra |
Tawny | Agni |
Dark | Yama |
Red | Maruts |
Colour | Varṇa |
Similar to conch, white lotus and crystal | Brāhmaṇa |
Looks like hare’s eye | Kṣatriya |
Resembles a plantain leaf | Vaiśya |
Like a well polished sword | Śūdra |
For a king, diamond with colours of turmeric juice or similar to the colour of a Japā flower is prescribed.
An excellent diamond can drive out snake’s poison. It keeps away the fear of fire, tiger thieves and water. It is said to be useful in the rituals related to sorcery. Since diamond is the hardest of all objects in the world, it is impossible to cut or even make a scratch on a diamond with any objects other than another diamond[3].
Mines, flow of water and temples of elephants are the main sources of diamond, mentioned in Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra[4]. Of these, diamonds got from the mines and flow of water was known by the term Prakīrṇaka.
In addition to these, Kauṭilya gives special references to another six places, where diamonds are found. They are -
- Sabhārāṣtra (Near Bombay),
- Kāstirarāṣtra (Region of Śrīkhaṇṭa mountain),
- Uttara (Maṇimantha mountain) and
- Indravāna (Kaliṅga region).
Kauṭilya describes a lot about the quality of a good diamond. Regarding its defects, he agrees with the Purāṇas. References to various colours of diamonds are seen in Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra. Thus diamonds with colours similar to Śirīṣa flower, cow’s urine, Gorocana etc. are described[5].
To the Purāṇic list of sources of diamond, Bṛhatsaṃhitā adds Himālaya region. Its colour is said to be similar to copper. According to the text, the diamond mined from the bank of Veṇā river is the purest of all. Bṛhatsaṃhitā also associates the various colours and shapes of diamonds with various deities[6].
They are—
Colour | Shape | Deities |
White | Hexagonal | Indra |
Dark | Snake’s mouth | Yama |
Resembling plantain leaf | Varied | Viṣṇu |
Similar to Karṇikāra | Female genital organ | Varuṇa |
Looks like tiger’s eye | Triangular | Agni |
Of Aśoka flower | Corn of barley | Vāyu |
The price of a diamond is calculated proportionate to its quality and weight. The normal weight of a diamond is equal to twenty rice grains. Such a diamond drifts on water and is considered the best. Wearing diamond by a woman desiring a child is generally not encouraged. But Bṛhatsaṃhitā recommends diamonds of good trait for women longing for a child[7].
P.C Ray[8] gives details of three categories of diamond -male, female and hermaphrodite. Their shape, size and colour are different. These are again divided into Brāhmaṇa, Kṣatriya, Vaiśya and Śūdra on the basis of their colour. The text also discusses the chemical processes related to diamond such as melting, purification, ‘killing’ and reducing into ashes.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
I.68.17
[2]:
I.68.21, 22
[3]:
I.46.48, 68.23, 27, 33, 34
[4]:
II.11.77
[5]:
Ibid
[6]:
80.6-7
[7]:
LXXIX.12-18
[8]:
AHHC, pp.100-104