1. Materials for Ornaments (Introduction)

Ornaments are an inseparable part of the life of human society, since ancient times. The prime reason for the practice of wearing ornaments is man’s desire to enhance his physical beauty and thereby to impress others. Both men and women are fond of adorning their body with ornaments from head to feet. Religious purposes and various beliefs also persuade men to wear ornaments. They wore ornaments for protection from diseases, to evade the bad effects of planets as well as to appease the auspicious planets. Ornaments were worn subjective to different occasions. They were not merely a means of physical beauty, but also an investment that took care of urgent financial needs. Anything that enhances beauty is an ornament. This fact is applicable in the case of animals as well as the immovable things. But this chapter focuses on the different aspects of ornaments that embellish human beings.

Metals, jewels, flowers, shells, beeds and glass were the materials used in the fabrication of ornaments. The prime factor that determines the selection of materials for ornaments is the financial status. When people of higher economic classes opted for jewels or precious metals, those of ordinary means had to fulfill their desire with cheap metals or other materials.

Besides metals, gems and flowers, ornaments were made of other materials like Śaṅkha, Rudrākṣa, bones, glass, lac, cowries, small beeds and Muñja. Of these, Rudrākṣa and Muñja are used in rituals by ascetics or by those observing penance or those involved in propitiating gods, while others were used by people having very moderate wealth. The ornaments of Nandabālā a shepherd girl characterised by Aśvaghoṣa are shell made^[1]. In Harṣacarita, we come across Sāvitrī wearing finger ring of shell^[2]. Ear ornaments made of ivory were popular. The technique of cleansing ivory articles by means of mustard paste was known to the people of Purāṇic period^[3].