7. Trade and Commerce (of clothes and dresses)

Textile industry in India was in a developed state even at an early period. Dress materials were manufactured in different parts of the country. They were imported from the neighboring countries also. Different countries were famous for the production of certain types of clothes. In general, cotton, linen, wool and silk textures were manufactured. Vaiśyas were experts in the field of trade.

In Vedic period itself textile articles had a good market. A complete hymn in Atharvaveda^[1] is devoted to the wishes for success in trade. From Ṛgveda^[2] we learn that the countries Paruṣṇi and Gāndhāra were famous in that Period for the production of different varieties of wool. It is also indicated that sheep was seen in abundance on the banks of the river Sindhu. In Mahābhārata^[3], we have reference to the wool presented by the Kings of Kāmboja, Ābhīra, Cīna and Vālhika to Yudhiṣṭhira on the occasion of his Rājasūya sacrifice.

It was in the southern regions that the production of cotton flourished. In Mahābhārata^[4] we find that kings from Bharukaccha, Cola and Pāṇḍya countries presented cotton clothes to Yudhiṣṭhira during the sacrifice. Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[5] informs us about the countries, in which the best varieties of cotton clothes were manufactured. Some of them are Madhurā, Aparāntaka, Kaliṅga, Vaṅga, Vasta and Māhiṣaka. In Kuṭṭanīmata^[6] it is recorded that cotton was largely cultivated in that period. Fostering of rams for wool also is attested in the text.

Countries like Cīna, Vālhika, Puṇḍra, Suvarṇakuḍya, Kaliṅga, Kosala, Magadha and Vaṅga were famous for the production of different varieties of silk. Of these, it is mentioned in Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[7] that Bengal was famous for the production of white as well as soft Dukūla. Blue and smooth one was manufactured in Puṇḍra, while from Suvarṇakuḍya, a reddish variety was made. Magadha was famous for Patrorṇa.

In Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[8] there are references to different sorts of Kṣauma clothes, manufactured in different countries. There it is mentioned that in Vaṅga country, white and soft Kṣauma clothes were produced. Pāṇḍya country was famous for its black and soft linen clothes, while sun coloured and soft ones were prepared by Suvarṇakuḍyaṃs. The smoothness of these three varieties is compared to the surface of a gem. Kṣauma from Assam was also famous. In Harṣacarita^[9], Bhāskaravarman is described as presenting Kṣauma, made from Kāmarūpa along with other gift articles to Harṣavardhana.

To conclude, clothes are considered not merely as one among the primary necessities of human being, but they are also reflectors of one’s aesthetic sense, personality, mood, social as well as economic conditions etc. It is not clear, when man began to cover his nudity. However it is clear that people were conscious about well dressing, even at the early stages of civilization. This is evident from the terms Suvāsas, Suvasana, Surabhi etc. which occur frequently in Ṛgveda, Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa and Aitareya-brāhmaṇa^[10]. In Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa^[11], there is a passage, which describes man’s natural instinct to look for people who are decently attired. Similarly some hymns in Ṛgveda^[12] point to the fondness of people, especially of women, towards well dressing. In some of these hymns goddesses are described as elegantly dressed.

Sanskrit literature not only illustrates the above mentioned different aspects of the idea of cloth wearing, but it sometimes directly informs us the developed state of social as well as aesthetic sense of human being, even at the early stages of our civilization.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

III.15

[2]:

X.75.8, I.126.7

[3]:

Sabhāparva, 51.10, 2, 52.35

[4]:

Ibid

[5]:

II.11.81

[6]:

v.870

[7]:

II.11

[8]:

Ibid

[9]:

VII^th Ucchvāsa

[10]:

Aitareya-brāhmaṇa, 2.55; Ṛgveda, VI.51.4, IX.97.50, I.24.7, III.8.4, X.71.4

[11]:

13.4.1.15

[12]:

I.124.7, IV.3.2,V.80.5, 6