3.1. Dress Making: Spinning and Weaving

The profession and art of dress making is as old as the age of Vedas. Several technical terms related to various processes in textile manufacturing give indications to the sophisticated knowledge acquired by people in this field, at an early period. It is very interesting to note that women were mostly employed in every work related to textile manufacturing which includes processes like weaving, spinning, stitching or sewing, bleaching, dyeing, perfuming, washing, printing, painting and embroidery.

We have only incidental references to spinning and weaving in Vedas, Brāhmaṇas and Gṛhyasūtras. But later in epics and other classical literature, we come across more details regarding this profession. Thus from these texts we learn that such professions were under the control of government and the employees were accordingly rewarded for their work. However in every age, spinning and weaving were the jobs of women folk.

Some technical terms related to weaving or spinning, which found in Samhitas and Brāhmaṇas are evident for the knowledge of people in these professions in that period. Some of such words used are Tantra (Warp), Oṭū (Woof), Tantu (Yarn), Veman (Loom), Muyūkha (Weight or shuttle) and Prācīnatana (Forward stretched web)^[1].

A weaver is mentioned in Ṛgveda^[2] by the term Vāya, while for a lady weaver, the terms Vāyitri, Sirī etc. are used^[3]. In another place, the god Puṣā is known by the name Vāsovāya^[4]. There in another context, the day and night are compared to two women weavers, who engaged in weaving by interlacing the long thread between them^[5]. In Taittirīyopaniṣad^[6], we read of the goddess Śrī engaged in making dress needed for herself. Both in Ṛgveda^[7] and Atharvaveda^[8], we have reference to a ceremony conducted in connection with the dress making. Śukranītisāra^[9] gives indication to spinning with various fibres.

In Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[10], a chapter is devoted to the textile industry, where we read of the function of a weaving department led by a superintendent called Adhyakṣa. Some materials manufactured in that department were threads, coats, clothes and ropes. As in Vedic age, spinning was a work usually done by women, who were provided with good wages, depending on the quality and perfection of the work done by them. In addition to their wages, they were also encouraged with presents such as scents, garland etc.

In Sabhāparva of Mahābhārata, Nārada asks Yudhiṣṭhira in a context thus -

[...].^[11]

From this verse it is clear that the work of artisans of any kind in the society was under the control of government and they were aided with money as well as instruments. Manusmṛti also regulates the operations of weaving^[12].

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa, 3.1.2.18; Ṛgveda, VI.9, 2.3, X.71.9, 266; Atharvaveda, XIV.2, 51; Taittirīya-saṃhitā, 6.1.14; Vājasaneya-saṃhitā, 19.80, 83

[2]:

X. 26.6

[3]:

Ṛgveda, X.71.9, Śatapatha-brāhmaṇa, 3.1.2.13; Pañcaviṃśa-brāhmaṇa, 1.8.9

[4]:

Ṛgveda, X.26.6

[5]:

RHAI, p.31

[6]:

1.4.2

[7]:

XI.10.3

[8]:

Ibid

[9]:

IV.3.174

[10]:

SLAI, p.180

[11]:

Sabhāparva, 5.118

[12]:

TACAI, p.236