2.1. Upper Garments (f): Kañcuka (tailored garment)

Kañcuka was a tailored garment worn by gents and ladies. Among men, it was usually worn by ministers, chief door keepers and soldiers. During hunting, kings also wore Kañcuka. Kañcuka was of various colours and was sometimes embroidered also. On certain occasions, Kañcuka was made as gift.

Kañcuka of men was a mantle. The dress of male attendant in a harem was Kañcuka and hence perhaps he was named Kañcuki. The term Kañcukoṣṇīṣi, mentioned in Kauṭilīya Arthaśāstra^[1] supports the above inference. In Nāṭyaśāstra^[2], it is described as a dress of ministers. Bāṇa^[3] represents the chief doorkeepers, dressed in Kañcuka. Amarakośa^[4] describes Kañcuka as armour. From Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa^[5] also we learn that it was usually a dress of soldiers as well as servants.

Kuṭṭanīmata gives indications to the shape of a Kañcuka. In one place there is a verse, which begins thus -

[...],^[6]

From this it is clear that Kañcuka of men was in the model of a mantle, which covered the shoulders, armpits, chest and both the sides.

Kañcuka worn by ladies was short, when compared to that of men. It was not in the model of a mantle. Some describe it as similar to the modern blouse. But Kālidāsa^[7] in some places has used the word in the sense of a breast cloth, tied in knots. Kañcuka was prevalent among ladies of almost all regions. Dravidian ladies were an exception to this, for in Mānasollāsa^[8] we read of bare breasted ladies of Drāviḍa. Full sleeved Kañcuka was in fashion among the ladies of Gujarath. Bilhaṇa^[9] attests the use of Kañcuka by unmarried girls. Even though they usually wore short ones, we have rare mentions of ladies wearing long coat like Kañcuka, In Harṣacarita^[10], Mālatī is depicted in one place as wearing Āprapadīnakañcuka, meaning one touching the feet. Caṇḍālakanyā (Tribal girl) in Kādambarī^[11] also is described thus.

Kañcuka were dyed in various colours. Bāṇa^[12] has mentioned a reddish brown Kañcuka worn by a soldier. In one place, he refers to a Kañcuka similar to lapis lazuli. For embroidered Kañcuka, we get evidence from Daśakumāracarita^[13]. A custom of presenting cotton Kañcuka in the month of Māgha was prevalent. Skandapurāṇa^[14] refers to it. Matsyapurāṇa^[15] records the custom of presenting a gold inlaid Kañcuka to maids at Ṣaṣṭhivrata.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

NTAIS, p.40

[2]:

21.134

[3]:

ICCO, p.26

[4]:

2.8.63

[5]:

VI.9553.20, 82.23.42

[6]:

v.523

[7]:

Abhijñānaśākuntala, I.19

[8]:

Social Life in Medieval Karnataka (SLMK), p.37

[9]:

Vikramāṅkadevacarita, XII,V.24

[10]:

pp.31,32

[11]:

NTAIS, p.74

[12]:

Harṣacarita, p.21

[13]:

pp.7, 14

[14]:

IV.4.9

[15]:

101.27