2.1. Upper Garments (d): Uttarīya (unstitched cloth)

Uttarīya was a long and broad unstitched cloth. Men and women wore Uttarīya in different styles. Whether Uttarīya was an item of dress of the common folk is not clear, for most of our knowledge regarding Uttarīya is supported by the references related to people belonging to the higher class in the society. However servants were not allowed to wear it. Uttarīya was compulsory during religious practices. It was sometimes embroidered as well as set with jewels. Plain as well as colourful types were in fashion. All sorts of materials were employed in its making. Uttarīya finds the earliest mention in Sūtra texts^[1].

Among the different styles adopted by men in wearing Uttarīya, one method was to cover the upper part of the body omitting head, while in the second way, Uttarīya was merely thrown away over the shoulders in such a way that both of its ends hung down over the chest. Whether it is long enough to touch the feet is not known. As per another method, it was worn in the same way a Yajñopavīta was worn. Sometimes, Uttarīya was worn in such a manner, so as to cover the upper body, leaving the right arm naked. All these descriptions inform us that Uttarīya was a long piece of cloth. In Ratnāvalī^[2], Vidūṣaka is described in one context as covering a picture board with his Uttarīya. Rāma in one place in Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa^[3] is seen wiping out the tears with the end of his Uttarīya. Uttarīya of women also was long. Sometimes it served the purpose of veil also.

In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa^[4], we find Sītā throwing away her Uttarīya, amidst the Vānaras in Ṛṣyamūka hill. This Uttarīya, later helped Rāma in proving the abduction of Sītā by Rāvaṇa.

There it is stated thus–

[...].^[5]

Vasumatī, characterised by Daṇḍi, in Daśakumāracarita^[6] is seen attempting to suicide by means of her Uttarīya. All these references give indications to Uttarīya worn by ladies. Usually married women wore Uttarīya. It was not worn by young unmarried girls and also by women in grief. In Mahābhārata^[7], we have reference to Sukanyā roaming in the forest without an Uttarīya. Likewise the widows of Kaurava princes are depicted as moving to the battle field by covering their face with the end of the lower garment^[8]. There we don’t have mention to Uttarīya. During their periods also women didn’t wear Uttarīya. Draupadī was in her monthly period, when she was dragged into the assembly. She is described as Ekavastrā^[9], meaning one wearing a single cloth. Uttarīya was not permissible for servants also. Draupadī disguised as Sairandhrī of Virāṭa’s queen Sudeṣṇā also is represented as Ekavastrā^[10]. Married women usually wore colourful Uttarīya, while widows used white.

In Āśramaparva of Mahābhārata, the widows of the Kaurava princess, going to see their father in law are described thus -

[...],^[11]

In Śivapurāṇa^[12] it is stated that during the ceremonies, one should wear an Uttarīya and a Dhoutavastra.

The materials for Uttarīya were not only cloth. But we have even reference to Uttarīya made of grass and skin. Rich people usually wore Uttarīya of silk texture. Dukūlottarīya, Sitadukūlottarīya, Pītapattottarīya are some common expressions. Sometimes the borders of Uttarīya were beautifully decorated with settings of precious stones. Kālidāsa alludes to such a type in Raghuvaṃśa^[13].

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

IVK, p.157

[2]:

NTAIS

[3]:

IV.5.7

[4]:

IV.6.11

[5]:

Ibid

[6]:

Pūrvapīṭhikā, Chapter I

[7]:

42.125

[8]:

XI.15.10, 99

[9]:

II.60.28, 30

[10]:

Virāṭaparva, 9.2

[11]:

Āśramaparva, 25.16

[12]:

pp.13-18

[13]:

XVI.43