2.1. Upper Garments (a): Head Dress: Veṣṭana

The definition of a Veṣṭana is thus -

[...],^[1]

Veṣṭana is referred to as used by both men and women. Kālidāsa^[2] has used the term Veṣṭana in the sense of a manner of tying turban. Sometimes Uttarīya itself served as Veṣṭana. It has been stated in Harṣacarita^[3].

In addition to the above mentioned names, some other names of head dress are, Kumbha, Kurīra, Śirastrāṇa, Śikhaṇḍa, Paṭṭa, Jālikā and Cīracūḍikā. Of these Kumbha and Kurīra were specially meant for ladies. It is stated in Baudhāyana-śrautasūtra^[4] that at the time of Rājasūya order was given to gold smiths for making golden Kumbha and Kurīra for all the royal female inmates of the harem. There it is further stated that while performing Rājasūya, this head dress was handed over by the priest to the wife of the sacrificer. She should wear the Kumbha and Kurīra at the same time, when the king wears the turban. These head dresses are described in Āpastamba-śrautasūtra^[5] as a net like hair dress. Kātyāyana-śrautasūtra^[6] refers to this net by the term Jāla. Śirastrāṇa is mentioned by Kālidāsa^[7]. Bāṇa has referred to Śikhaṇḍa and Jālikā^[8]. We have reference to Paṭṭa in Bhāsa’s works^[9]. Cīracūḍikā is attested by Daṇḍi^[10]. Cīracūḍikā, as the name indicates is a cloth, worn over the crest. In one place Daṇḍi refers to a Cīracūḍikā of blue Aṃśuka.

People were skilled in tying turbans in various styles. From the description made by Patañjali^[11] in one place, it is clear that there were turbans, shaped so as to cover the entire head. In Harṣacarita^[12] we find that turbans were worn in such a way that different designs of knots were produced on it. Bāṇa^[13] alludes to one turban having Svastika shaped knot in the centre. Bāṇa attests the use of cone shaped caps also^[14].

Different colours of turbans were employed for different occasions. During the magic rites, a red coloured turban was worn by the performer. In Mahābhārata^[15], the turbans of Droṇa and Bhīṣma are referred to as white in colour. In Kādambarī^[16], we come across white and black coloured turbans.

Turbans were an important item during the stage performance. But Bharata^[17] prescribes them only for those, who belong to respectable class such as kings, ministers, soldiers, priests and rich merchants. They are suggested to wear winding turbans. Sometimes their head dress consists of a turban and a mask, both in a mutually attached form.

From the above given information it can be concluded that head dress generally symbolise dignity. Hence it was mostly worn by people of high social status.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Sanchi Sculptures (SSPT), p.111

[2]:

Raghuvaṃśa, VIII.12

[3]:

pp.109,121

[4]:

XV.15

[5]:

X.9.7

[6]:

VII.4.7

[7]:

Raghuvaṃśa, VIII.12; Kumārasambhava, VIII.35, IV.14, 41

[8]:

Harṣacarita, p.32; Kādambarī, p.209

[9]:

Daridracārudatta, Act I

[10]:

Daśakumāracarita, p.141

[11]:

Mahābhāṣya, I.1.27

[12]:

p.109

[13]:

Ibid

[14]:

Kādambarī, p.401

[15]:

4.104

[16]:

p.312

[17]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, 21.149