Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India
by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words
This page relates ‘Business and Trade of Cosmetics’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.
10. Business and Trade of Cosmetics
Perfume articles had huge demand in ancient India. The business of perfumes was lucrative.
The following stanza of Pañcatantra gives indication to this fact.
[...].[1]
Chapter nine of the Vādikhaṇḍa in Rasaratnākara[2] begins by mentioning the necessity of acquiring knowledge in the manufacture of jewels and cosmetics.
In that beginning verse, Nityānātha opines that wealth provides all sorts of pleasures and hence it is considered the essence of human life. He considered therefore the knowledge of the preparation of jewels and cosmetics as a means to acquire plenty of wealth.
There was even a society of perfumers who were skilled in the manufacturing and trade of scents and cosmetics. They were generally known as Gandhayuktivid, Gandhayuktijña or Gandhika. Vender of cosmetics and perufmes were also called as Kācchika and Gandhājīva. Pāṇini[3] calls the lady seller of cosmetics as Śalālukī. In Yaśastilakacampū[4], we have reference to stall of perfumes. Perfumes and other articles of toilet were imported from foreign countries also. Likewise aromatic ingredients used in the preparation of cosmetics were exported to the neighbouring countries like Ceylon. India maintained a good commercial relationship with other countries through the overland and seaborne trade. In Bṛhatsaṃhitā[5], we have reference to harbour filled with cargo. Similarly, Varāhamihira refers to South Indian mariners—Vāricara, who according to him are experts in seaborne trade[6].
To conclude, Sanskrit literature contains ample references to cosmetics, their mode of preparation, uses and provides scope for trying new combinations from existing ones. This in turn is a reflection of the great scientific and industrial enterprise that was prevalent in ancient India. It is to be noted that all these items were not used by everyone in the society. As it is now, luxury was a sign of affluence and cosmetics were also a part of luxury. But several people might have earned a livelihood by the manufacture and trade of these items.
Footnotes and references:
[1]:
SIICH, p.89
[2]:
Ibid, p.88
[3]:
Aṣṭādhyāyī, 4.4.54
[4]:
II, V.105
[5]:
XLVII.12
[6]:
XIV.14