Cosmetics, Costumes and Ornaments in Ancient India

by Remadevi. O. | 2009 | 54,177 words

This page relates ‘Prohibition of Cosmetics’ of the study on cosmetics, costumes and ornaments of ancient India based on Sanskrit sources. Chapter one deals with cosmetics and methods of enhancing beauty; Chapter two deals with costumes, garments and dresses; Chapter three deals with ornaments for humans and animals. Each chapter deals with their respective materials, types, preparation and trade, as prevalent in ancient Indian society.

9. Prohibition of Cosmetics

Since cosmetics especially Tāmbūla, unguents, fragrant oils and other perfumes are object of enjoyment, ascetics, students, celibates, widows, persons observing fasts and performing ceremonies, women in the monthly period etc. were not permitted to use the above said articles. Dharmaśāstras, Smṛtis, Upaniṣads and Purāṇas prohibit the use such objects of enjoyment by certain people.

According to Aṣṭāṅgasaṅgraha[1], a student should not chew betel, especially at night.

During the illustration of Anaucitya, Jagannāthapaṇḍita refers to the betel chewing of a student thus -

[...],[2]

Śivapurāṇa (Śivapurāṇa)[3], Vasiṣṭhasmṛti[4] and Smṛtyarthaśāstra[5] also consider betel chewing by a student as forbidden. According to Śivapurāṇa, a student should not use tooth sticks and perfumes also. During mourning also people should avoid the use of cosmetics.

As per the information quoted in Vasiṣṭhasmṛti[6] and Aṣṭāṅgasaṅgraha[7], widows and ascetics also are not allowed to enjoy betel. Similarly in Vasiṣṭhasmṛti it is recorded that a woman in her monthly period should not chew betel. Agnipurāṇa[8], Viṣṇurahasya[9] and Smṛtyarthaśāstra[10] insist on the prohibition of Tāmbūla by one who observes fasts like Ekādaśī. He is also not permitted to besmear unguent or oil on the body. In Itihāsopaniṣad and Aṣṭāṅgasaṅgraha it is mentioned that betel chewing is unallowable to those who perform Śrāddha or other religious ceremonies. But according to Smṛtyarthaśāstra, there is no harm in chewing betel during certain Pitṛyajñas like Nityaśrāddha, Amāśrāddha, Aparapākṣikaśrāddha etc[11]. In addition to the above mentioned categories of people, a well renowned person also should not enjoy betel during three days starting with Daśamī.

It is quoted in Bṛhannāradīya thus -

[...],[12]

Tāmbūla is one among the hindrances of Yoga. But Yogasiddhāntacandrikā[13] and Śivasaṃhitā, two tantric treatises on Yoga, recommend betel without lime to Yogi[14].

In Harṣacarita[15], we come across Harṣa avoiding the enjoyment of betel on Prabhākaravarman’s death. Likewise in Kādambarī[16], we read of Kādambarī wiping the stain of betel from her lips after Candrāpīḍas death.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

Ibid, p.134

[2]:

p.51

[3]:

SIICH, p.134

[4]:

Ibid

[5]:

Ibid, p.35

[6]:

Ibid

[7]:

Ibid

[8]:

Chapter 175

[9]:

SIICH, p.136

[10]:

Ibid, p.137

[11]:

Ibid, p.135

[12]:

Ibid, p.136

[13]:

p.100

[14]:

SIICH, p.157

[16]:

p.198

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