2.9. Pharmaceutical use of Anulepana (Unguents)

Unguents (anulepana) are viscous substances used as ointments. They are an article of toilet and were applied not only for adorning the body but were useful in keeping away the fatigue, perspiration and are a remedy for pimples, moles and thus imparts glaziness to the face and body. Different varieties of unguents were in use and were mostly used during bath. Unguents were besmeared on body after bath and were bestowed upon guests also. Purāṇas prohibit the use of unguents before a bath. Usually aristocrats used fragrant unguents (anulepana) prepared of different aromatic ingredients.

a) Preparation of Unguents (anulepana)

Unguents were prepared with different substances. Sometimes the ingredients of unguents were more than one. Ingredients mainly include roots, seeds, barks, weeds, leaves and flowers of certain trees or plants. Unguents (anulepana) made of different varieties of sandal, saffron, musk, Aguru, Gorocana and turmeric were most popular. In Atharvaveda^[1], we read of women using fragrant unguents made of Guggulu, Pīlu, Nalada, Aukṣagandhī, Pramandinī etc. after their bath. An unguent called Gauggulāna is referred to there. As the name indicates, it is perhaps made of Guggulu. Purāṇas^[2] also record the use of unguents. Asura ladies had a special fondness towards unguents. They anointed their breast with Haricandana and Gośīrṣa. In Matsyapurāṇa^[3], we have reference to Tāraka decorating his body with aloe wood paste. There in another context, Viraka is represented as applying paste of red arsenic. For daily use, Purāṇas^[4] give some recipes of unguents. Some of the ingredients of such unguents include turmeric, cow’s urine, Kuśmāṇḍa, Kṣāra (Salt petre), buffalo dung, sesame, mustard, Kuṣṭhaka, Dūrvā, Arjuna flower, Jambū leaf, milk of Lodhra, Kākajaṅga and gold dust. For Vaktralepa (Facial makeup), Purāṇas^[5] prescribe unguents prepared from red sandal, Lodhra, saffron, Mañjiṣṭha, Kāleyaka, barley, rice, Yaṣṭhimadhu, Lākṣā and Karsaka. For preventing wrinkles, Purāṇas^[6] recommend an unguent (anulepana) made of Aṭaśī, black gram flour, wheat flour, long pepper and clarified butter. A mixture of clarified butter, honey and Kuṣṭha powder is also recommended as a remedy for wrinkles. This medicine is there directed to take at night before sleep. Unguent made of red sandal paste was usually used during bath. In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa^[7], we have reference to Rāma, Rāvaṇa, Añjanā and Sītā applying red sandal paste. Other varieties of sandal also were employed in unguents. From Kāmasūtra^[8] we learn that unguents made of sandal is an unavoidable substance in the daily life of a Nāgaraka. Kālidāsa^[9] also gives ample references to unguents made of Kālīyaka and Haricandana. Ointments made of Kālāguru, musk and saffron are often referred to. Women applying saffron and sandal paste mixed with Priyaṅgu on their breast are also mentioned. A fragrant unguent made of Harītakī powder, bark of mango, leaf of Dāḍimā and henna is recorded in Suśruta-saṃhitā^[10]. In Mānasollāsa^[11], there is a chapter entitled Vilepanabhoga, which gives an account of the preparation of different types of unguents used by kings.

Recipe of an unguent (anulepana) for royal bath as mentioned in the text is as follows.

I. Ingredients

Roots	Leaves	Seeds	Weeds	Flowers
Pālaka	Nimba	Ela	Lavaṅga	Nāgakesa ra
Tagara	Rājavṛkṣa	Jāti	Padmaka	Punnāga
Māṃsī	Tulasī	Sarṣapa	Lodhra	Kāntā
Vājigandha	Arjaka	Tila	Śrīkhaṇḍa	Kuṅkuma
Puṣkara		Kustumbaru	Suradāru	Campaka
Koṣṭha		Cakramarda	Aguru
Paṭolaka Musta Niśādvayam [Niśādvaya] Turmeric Tree turmeric Grandhiparṇa		Bākuci	Sarala

II. Preparation

Roots of the above mentioned herbs should be dried in shade and then crushed together. This powder is then mixed with a paste of leaves mentioned in the table. To this mixture of powder and paste, pulverized seeds are added. This mixture is then blended together with the powdered weeds and then it is mingled with the flowers referred to in the table. In the final stage, materials like Guggulu, Saindhava, Bola and Sarjarasa are ground in water or rice vinegar and to this paste; the above mentioned mixture is added.

Usually the kings applied perfumed ointment of turmeric. In the hair they applied scented ointment of Āmalaka fruit. For repelling the odour of sweat, the text prescribes an unguent namely Sandhya.

b) Unguents for Different Seasons

Unguents (anulepana) were varied according to various seasons. In Agnipurāṇa^[12], Mānasollāsa^[13] and Kāvyamīmāṃsā (Kāvyamīmāṃsā)^[14], it is stated that during summer people applied an ointment of Kashmir saffron and Śrīkhaṇḍa. This unguent is there described as having a cooling effect similar to ice. In the rainy season, smooth musk was used, while for autumn, they opted vermilion prepared from lotus filaments. For winter season, these texts prescribe a special kind of paste namely Pulliñja, civet, seeds of Niśācūrṇa, seeds and sprouts of holy basil, sprouts of sandal tree, mango tree, rose apple and peels of citron are the main ingredients of the aforesaid unguent (anulepana). Method of preparation also is mentioned. As per the information given in Kāvyamīmāṃsā, musk, sandal, Aguru and saffron is included among the list of unguents for rainy season. In Hemanta season, it is stated that people apply saffron mixed with beeswax to the mouth. For hair, they opted fragrant oil in this season. Rājaśekhara refers to women applying saffron in the winter season also. During summer, he said, people will besmear their body with camphor powder.

c) Properties of Unguents (anulepana)

Medical texts mention the properties of unguents. According to Suśruta^[15], unguents enhance one’s beauty and complexion, improves eye sight and provides vitality.

In Rājavallabha-nighaṇṭu, properties of an unguent are described thus -

[...].^[16]

From this it is clear that unguents are not merely ointments for anointing the body, but are medicines, which impart strength also.

d) Women and Unguents

Even though unguents (anulepana) were used by both the sexes; ladies had a special fondness towards it. They attended all the functions, anointing their body with unguents. Widows and separated women also used unguents. In Ṛgveda^[17], we come across Aśviṃs and Araṇyāni (The forest queen) decorating their body with unguents. Even women attending funerals also are described as using unguents. There in another context, we read of matrons going out anointing their body with scentless balms. In Atharvaveda^[18], there are certain hymns, which give indications to women’s craze towards unguents. These hymns describe men attracting ladies by applying unguents. Separated women avoided the use of scented ointments. We come across Damayantī^[19] and Sītā^[20] decorating their body with mud instead of fragrant unguents. Perfumed unguents (anulepana) were allowed to widows. In Mahābhārata, we have reference to Kuntī^[21] decorating her body with Gorocana, sandal paste and other cosmetics.

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

IV.5.3

[2]:

Matsyapurāṇa, 139.41

[3]:

Ibid, 148.28

[4]:

EPB, p.1017

[5]:

Ibid, 1018

[6]:

Ibid

[7]:

V.17.7; II.5.112; IV.58.30; III.1.78

[8]:

India in Kālidāsa (IIK), p.207

[9]:

Ṛtusaṃhāra, IV.5, II.20; Raghuvaṃśa, VI.60

[10]:

Cikitsāsthāna, Chapter 25

[11]:

81.87.

[12]:

CCXXIV

[13]:

85.87

[14]:

XVIII

[15]:

Chapter 24, vv 39-41

[16]:

p.34

[17]:

II.29.2, X.146.6, 18.7,VII.55.8

[18]:

IV.5.3

[19]:

Mahābhārata, III.222.29

[20]:

Vālmīkirāmāyaṇa, 124.17

[21]:

III.223.12, 112; XIII.124.17