Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology

[Find the meaning and references behind the names: Guna, Vaibhav, Tilak, Joy, Chin, Precious, Deep, Ama, Naik, Kajal, Anita]

ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE July-Aug 2016 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | July - Aug 2016 | Vol. 1 | Issue 2 38 Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology Sumedh Wasnik, Tanuja Naik 1 , Anita Ghodke 2 , Vaibhav Sulakhe 3 Professor & Head, Department of Shalya, 1 Post Graduate Scholar, 2 Associate Professor, Department of Dravya Guna, 3 Assistant Professor, Department of Agada Tantra, PMT’s Ayurved Medical College , Shevgaon, Ahmednagar, Maharashtra, India. I NTRODUCTION Everybody wants to be beautiful which gives pleasure to the sense. Beauty offers a source of joy and gives confidence and proud in some extent. Since Ancient time, it has been an intense desire of human beings to be more and more attractive and to attract somebody. We can find earliest references of Address for correspondence: Dr. Sumedh Wasnik Professor & Head, Dept. of Shalya Tantra PMT’s Ayurved Medical College , Shevgaon, Ahmednagar, Maharashtra, India. E-mail: drsumedh.wasnik 14@gmail.com Submission Date : 25/07/2016 Accepted Date: 29/08/2016 Access this article online Website: www.jaims.in DOI: 10.21760/jaims.v 1 i 2.3663 beautifulness in Meghadoota, Abhijnana Shakuntalam of Kalidasa and many other mythological epics, drugs like; Kajal, Tilak, Alita and Agaru (Aquilaria agalbeha ) were used as body decorative and to create beauty spots on the forehead, chin, cheeks, neck, umbilicus and flank and also wearing various ornaments. According to Ayurveda, the knowledge of beauty starts from mother wombs, Dinacharya, Ratricharya, Ritucharya (regimes of day, night and particular season) with the practice of medicinal herbs and minerals. The secret of Ayurvedic cosmetology lies in the surrounding nature. Owing to have Ayurveda as a tradition and life science, Indians use vegetables, fruit, herbals, precious stones, metals, minerals and this let them create unique products which are useful for skin care combined with Ayurvedic massages and cleansing procedures which lead our body and skin to rejuvenation. Cosmetology is the science of alternation of appearance and modification of beauty. A B S T R A C T Cosmetology deals with various aspect of beauty. Beauty is the quality of being physically attractive, the qualities in a person or a thing that give pleasure to the senses or the mind. It is the quality or aggregate of qualities in a person or thing that gives pleasure to the senses or pleasurably exalts the mind or spirit. Beauty is the quality present in a thing or person that gives intense pleasure or deep satisfaction to the mind, whether arising from sensory manifestations (as shape, colour, sound, etc.), a meaningful design or pattern, or something else. It pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight. Beauty of person gives perceptual experience of pleasure or satisfaction. According to Ayurveda , the concept of beauty includes physical, mental, social and spiritual elements. Ayurveda is the science of health care and healing, works on four levels body, Breath, mind and spirit. When these are in perfect harmony, a person radiates with inner and outer beauty. In fact, the concept of beauty and cosmetics is as old as mankind and civilization. Ama (toxic materials) inside our body make a person ugly and diseased and Sodhana i.e. Panchakarma (purification) is the best therapeutic intervention to eliminate body toxins. Being Ayurveda as a life science and tradition of India, soon India will be the global cosmetic industry’s capital because of advantages of Ayurveda and Ayurvedic medicines. Key words: Ayurveda , Panchakarma, Varnya, Cosmetics, Cosmetology

[Find the meaning and references behind the names: Anjana, Flower, Good]

Sumedh Wasnik et. al. Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE July-Aug 2016 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | July - Aug 2016 | Vol. 1 | Issue 2 39 Any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of human body like epidermis, hair, nails, and lips, or with the teeth and mucous membrane of oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and or protecting them or keeping them in good conditions [1] Human body functions through various channel systems called “Srotas,” containing both microscopic and macroscopic structures such as the respiratory system, lymphatic/circulatory system, reproductive system, urinary system and nervous systems. All these channels function as innumerable psycho-biochemical processes and responsible for wellness and beauty. Their coordinated rhythmic actions perform various complex physiological processes. Because of certain reasons like genetic factors or more commonly, lifestyle factors, unhealthy food choices, stress or environmental influences, there will be toxins formation resulting in alteration of physiological functions (disease) [2] These toxins or unprocessed metabolic deposits can cloud the normal psychobiological cellular intelligence and loss body lustre and beauty . Panchakarma therapy is both preventative for healthy people to maintain and improve excellent cellular function, and curative for those experiencing disease. Biologically active ingredients are easily absorbed into the deeper layers of skin and influence it at the cellular level. These organic ingredients are based on the same biological principles as the human body. That’s why the human body has po sitive response to natural substances with an inbuilt resistance. This is only reason why Ayurveda is the future of cosmetology. Benefits of Ayurveda in cosmetic counter part ▪ Time proven safety. ▪ No animal experiments. ▪ Natural sources suits to human body well. ▪ Human body can resist to synthetic substances. ▪ Herbs have a mild effect but have powerful and specific healing properties. ▪ Works at cellular level and improves normal functions of the skin. ▪ pH balance is well maintained. ▪ Promotes the capacity to absorb products. ▪ Particularly suited to skin and hair care. ▪ Natural fragrances of flower and herbal ▪ Extracts help to calm the nerves and induce relaxation. Ayurveda Medicine as Cosmetics Charak Samhita classified cosmetics drugs as – Varnya ( fairness ) , Kustagna ( antihistaminic ) , Kandugna ( antipruritus ), Vayasthapak ( antiageing ), Udarda prasamana , etc [3] Many alepam (poultice) Pradeha, Upnaha, Anjana, Taila are described in Susruta Samhita and Astanga Hrudaya in the context of Twak Roga . The very common medicine are - Kunkumadi Lepam, Dashangalepam, Chandanadi Lepam, Dashana Samskar Churna, Kumkumadi Taila, Nilibringaraj Taila, Himasagar Taila, etc. are very well established medicine in Ayurveda [4] Sesame oil is used as a base in many oil in Ayurveda . It contains Lignan compounds called Sesamin and Sesamolin, which are biologically active. These compounds enhance oxidative stability of the oil. They have potential to be used as anti oxidant compounds as well as having a moisturising effe ct. Buttermilk and goat’s milk powders traditionally used in Indian face mask preparations have soothing and emollient properties. They also contain vitamin A, B 6, B 12 and E. They make beneficial alternatives to chemical bases and emollients. Shikakai is a traditional herb used in hair shampoos. The material is extracted from the Shikakai pods and Shikakai nuts of the Acacia Concinna shrub.The pods are rich in Saponins and make a mild detergenent, which has a neutral pH [5] Aritha powder, extracted from Soapnuts (Sapindus Pericarp ) also contains Saponins, which acts as a foaming agent. It was used as soap in Ayurvedic tradition. The oils also maintain integrity of cosmetic products and could be used as a base instead of petroleum and plastic derivatives. In skin conditions like leucoderma,

[Find the meaning and references behind the names: Vera, Rosa, Sun]

Sumedh Wasnik et. al. Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE July-Aug 2016 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | July - Aug 2016 | Vol. 1 | Issue 2 40 psoriasis, eczema and pimples, certain Ayurvedic preparations have already been found beneficial Classification of Ayurvedic Cosmetics 1 Cosmetics for enhancing the appearance of facial skin. 2 Cosmetics for hair growth and care. 3 Cosmetics for skin care, especially in teenagers (acne, pimples and sustaining) 4 Shampoos, soaps, powders and perfumery, etc. 5 Miscellaneous products List of medicinal plants commonly used as Cosmetics A. Medicinal Plants used as Moisturizers, Skin Tonics and Anti-Aging [6] 1 Aloe vera - Moisturizer, Sunscreen & Emollient 2 Calendula officinalis - Wound healing 3 Cichorium intybus - Skin blemishes 4 Curcuma longa - Antiseptic, Antibacterial, Improves complexion 5 Daucus carota - Natural toner and skin rejuvenator 6 Glycyrrhiza glabra - Skin whitening 7 Ocimum sanctum - Anti-aging, Antibacterial & Antiseptic 8 Rosa damascena - Toning & Cooling 9 Rosmarinus officinalis - Skin rejuvenator & Cleansing 10 Rubia cordifolia - Wound healing & Anti-aging 11 Triticum sativum - Antioxidant, Skin nourisher, anti-wrinkle B. Sun Screen: 1 Aloe vera - Moisturizer, 2 Suticum sativum - Antioxidant C. Sun Tan: 1 Cyperus rotundus - Sun tanning 2 Moringa oliefera - Sun tanning D. Astringent 1. Mesua ferrea - Strong Astringent 2. Pistacia Integerrim - Astringent, Rubefacient, Antibacterial 3. Terminalia chebul a - Astringent, Antibacterial, Antifungal & Antiseptic E. Ayurvedic Ingredients for Dental Care Product and Uses [7] 1. Azadirachta indica - Toothache, Antibacterial, Dental carries 2. Acacia Arabica - Swelling, Bleeding gums & Syphilitic infections 3. Barleria prionitis - Toothache, Bleeding gums & strengthens teeth 4. Mimosops Elengi - Astringent, keep gums healthy 5. Pimpinella anisum - Antiseptic, Aromatic flavor 6. Salvadora persica - Potent Antimicrobial 7. Syzygium aromaticum - Local anesthetic, relieves toothache 8. Symplocos Racemosus - Strengthen gums and teeth F. Dermatological applications 1. Allium sativum - Antifungal, Antiseptic, Tonic 2. Alpinia galangal - Antibacterial 3. Azadirachta indica - Potent Antibacterial 4. Celastrus paniculata - Wounds healing, Eczema 5. Nigella sativa - Antibacterial, Leucoderma 6. Pongamia glabra - Herpes, Scabies, Leucoderma 7. Psoralea corylifolia - Leucoderma, Leprosy, Psoriasis and Inflammation G. Ingredients for Hair Care Products 1 Acacia Concinna - Natural Detergent and Antidandruff 2 Aloe Vera - Cleanser and Revitalizer

[Find the meaning and references behind the names: Gold, Golden, Anmol, Fast, Market, Bright, Alba]

Sumedh Wasnik et. al. Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE July-Aug 2016 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | July - Aug 2016 | Vol. 1 | Issue 2 41 3 Azadirachta Indica - Reduces hair loss, Antidandruff 4 Bacopa Monnier i - Hair tonic, Promotes hair growth 5 Cedrus Deodara - Anti-dandruff 6 Centella Asiatica - Darkening of hair 7 Eclipta Alba - Reduces premature graying of hair, Alopecia 8 Emblica Officinalis - Toner, Anti-dandruff, Protects and reduces hair loss 9 Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis - Natural Hair dye, Prevent hair fall, Antidandruff 10 Hedychium Spicatum - Promotes hair growth 11 Lawsonia Alba - Natural Hair dye, Antidandruff, Conditioner 12 Rosmarinus Officinalis - Nourishes, Softens and restores the hair shafts 13 Sapindus Trifoliatus - Natural detergent and Cleanse 14 Triticum Sativum - Provides nourishment, lubrication and luster 15 Terminalia Belerica - Prevents graying of hair 16 Sesamum Indicum - Promotes hair growth, blackens the hair [8] DISCUSSION Today is the era of cosmetology, plastic and reconstructive surgery and aesthetic surgery, naturally various manufacturing and marketing companies from all corners of the world are thinking about the same. Being one of the biggest markets, India is focused by such companies. Ayurveda is the tradition, life as well as medical science of India, which is also being accepted globally. As synthetic and chemical preparations/products have got certain limitations with known adverse effect, global beauty companies have already decided to concentrate on natural, herbal production . So India has the golden opportunity to come up with production and sell of cosmetic products Since last few years, the beauty market is growing very fast and using products having natural or herbal components, and the market share of natural-based products has been increasing gradually. Now days, consumers are well educated and aware of beauty products, so companies have pressure to use natural/herbal ingredients in their products. On the supply side, companies are engaging in advanced research of plant-derived peptides, encapsulated actives, active plant stem cells, complex extraction processes and clinical testing to deliver products that are acceptable to the well-informed clients. The India market has been traditionally inclined toward natural products for their beauty needs, and Indian have a history and knowledge of using natural products. While consumers in the rest of the world have to be educated about the benefits of natural herbs, this knowledge is well inherited in India from generations. The need is for companies to translate the ancient Ayurvedic recipes into modern with superior quality. Concern about harmful chemicals in beauty products has increased consumer interest in natural cosmetics. More and more products now include herbal ingredients. Ayurvedic cosmetics are still competing with synthetic products, and they need to ensure quality that is similar to synthetic brands. Moreover, India and natural / herbal beauty products have bright future in cosmetology in today’s and tomorrow’s time REFERENCES 1 Gardec GK. Sartha Vagbhata. 1 st ed. Anmol Publication, New Delhi. 2002:277 2 Gardec GK. Sartha Vagbhata. 1 st ed. Anmol Publication, New Delhi. 2002:277 3 Gardec GK. Sartha Vagbhata. 1 st ed. Anmol Publication, New Delhi. 2002:277 4 Javalekar. Dravyaguna Vidyana. Proficient Publication House, Pune. 2000,208-65. 5 Kapoor VP. Herbal cosmetics for skin and hair care, Natural Product Radiance, 2007:307-14. 6 Chuarienthong P, Laurith N,leelaponnpisid P. Clinical efficacy of Anti wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. (2010) International journal of cosmetic science, 32: 99-116.

[Find the meaning and references behind the names: Nil, Med]

Sumedh Wasnik et. al. Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology ISSN: 2456-3110 REVIEW ARTICLE July-Aug 2016 Journal of Ayurveda and Integrated Medical Sciences | July - Aug 2016 | Vol. 1 | Issue 2 42 7 Kapoor VP. Herbal cosmetics for skin and hair care. Natural product radiance, vol-July-Aug 2007:307-14. 8 Kapoor VP. Herbal cosmetics for skin and hair care. Natural product radiance. vol-July-Aug 2007:307-14. *************************** How to cite this article: Sumedh Wasnik, Tanuja Naik, Anita Ghodke, Vaibhav Sulakhe. Ayurvedic perspective of Cosmetology. J Ayurveda Integr Med Sci 2016;2:38- 42. http://dx.doi.org/10.21760/jaims.v 1 i 2.3663 Source of Support: Nil, Conflict of Interest: None declared.

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