Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision

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Review Article This work is licensed under a CC BY 4.0 License International Research Journal of Ayurveda & Yoga Vol. 5 (8),133-137, August, 2022 ISSN: 2581-785 X; https://irjay.com/ DOI: 10.47223/IRJAY.2022.5817 Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision Preeti Gupta 1 , Jwala Verma 2 , Chandan Singh 3 , Rajendra Prasad Purvia 4 , Manoj Adlakha 5 1,2- PG scholar, Deparment of Dravya Guna Vigyana, Dr. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan Rajasthan Ayurveda University, Jodhpur, Rajasthan. 3-Professor and Head of the Deparment of Dravya Guna Vigyana, Dr. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan Rajasthan Ayurveda University, Jodhpur, Rajasthan. 4,5-Associate Professor of the Deparment of Dravya Guna Vigyana, Dr. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan Rajasthan Ayurveda University, Jodhpur, Rajasthan. INTRODUCTION Beauty is the desire of every individual to give pleasure to the sense. Beauty is not only a source of joy but gives confidence and proud in some extent. A person usually gets respect by virtue of his knowledge by physical appearance by speech by costume and by wealth. It is a subject of Socio-medical importance, which has been accepted since time immemorial. Along with increased demand of beautification, the problems are also increasing which cause damage to beauty or personality due to changed life style and polluted atmosphere. The concept of beauty and cosmetics is as old as human civilization. In Ayurveda the concept of beauty has an age-old origin. According to Ayurveda healthy skin is a result of overall health condition of individuals and prescribes numerous skin care treatment that needs to be pursued at every stage of life. Cosmetology has been described very systematically in Ayurveda; the Article Info Article history: Received on: 27-07-2022 Accepted on: 24-08-2022 Available online: 31-08-2022 Corresponding author- Preeti Gupta, PG scholar, Deparment of Dravya Guna Vigyana, Dr. Sarvepalli Radhakrishnan Rajasthan Ayurveda University, Jodhpur, Rajasthan. Email: -drpreetigupta 2016@gmail.com ABSTRACT: Background - Ayurveda is an ancient science of indigenous medicine, which is special in respect that, it is not only a medical science but is an art of living in human beings. There is a great demand of Ayurveda in the field of cosmetology due to its unique concept about beauty and its effective, cheaper and long-lasting beauty therapy without any side effect. Some medicinal plants like - Haridra, Manjistha, Sariva, Chandana, Amalaki, Ghritkumari, Babul, Lavanga, Shikakai, Ritha, Bhringaraj etc. have been prescribed for beautification of skin, hair, etc. Review methods- The studies done in previous years were found using Medline, Pubmed, Google scholar and by manual search. The searches conducted for determining the role of Ayurveda in cosmetology were included in this study. Results- It has been tried to keenly understand the role of Ayurveda in cosmetology from various aspects. The present review deals with the advantages of Ayurveda in Cosmetology, ayurvedic medicines & medicinal plants as cosmetics. Conclusion- After reviewing the classical texts and several articles, it has been concluded that Ayurvedic beauty concepts and products have bright future in cosmetology. The increased demand for the natural product has created new avenues in cosmeceutical market Keywords: Cosmetology, Kushtha, Varnya, Rasayana

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Preeti et. al “Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision.” : 2022; 5 (8):133-137 134 measures to attain it, maintain it and also to enhance it through proper diet and nutrition, serenity of mind, and other specific measures to take care of different aspects of beauty. Ayurveda also believes that the serenity and contentment of true beautiful face is the direct reflection of Ojas (the substance that maintains life) which is the byproduct of a healthy, efficient, contented physiology 1 Ayurveda gives emphasis on lifestyle modifications such as following daily regimens and seasonal regimens.Directive 93/35/EEC, the Sixth Amendment to the original Cosmetic Directive of 1976, incorporates the following definition of a cosmetic product: “A cosmetic product shall mean any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or mainly to cleaning them, perfuming them, changing their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or protecting them or keeping them in good condition” MATERIALS AND METHODS Literary searches were conducted to collect Ayurvedic literature from classical texts and relevant articles along with google search. The search was done online through Medline, PubMed and Google Scholar. After the in-depth search and sorting out the studies based on the theme of the study, the data extraction was done. Then the final set of manuscript was prepared including the objective of the study, the methodology, salient findings and the conclusions of various researches. RESULT Cosmetology In Ancient Period A lot of evidences in the history are available showing the special attention paid towards the beauty. Various paintings, carvings, cave paintings etc. at different places sufficiently support the above statement. The ancient source of existing knowledge i.e Veda along with Purana, Ramayana, Mahabharata, Brihat Samhita, Vatsyayana Kamsutra etc. are also having a great contribution in this field Some specimens like ‘ Shilajitu’, Kajala’ and ‘Mirrors’ found in the Mohanjodaro and Harrapa culture indicate that the aesthetic sense prevailed in that period.In ‘Rigveda’ description of the Lepa (local application) of certain herbs and in ‘Atharvaveda’ many mantras highlight the significance of improving the Varna , the Kesha , the Intellect, the Lusture and the Glaring appearance of the body are found. In ‘Garuda purana ’ various beautifying yoga are mentioned. Description of Beauty for male and female body organs is also given separately in it 2 The two great epics ‘Ramayana’ and ‘Mahabharata’ give ample description about beauty of important personalities like ‘Ramachandra’, ‘Sita’, ‘Nakula’, ‘Sahdeva’ etc. In the ‘Anushasan Parva’ of Mahabharata for acquiring beauty and popularity, one has to be doing Chandrayana Vrata in ‘Magasirsha Masa’ has been mentioned.The Ayurvedic texts are also lagging behind in this direction. The oriental medical experts have stressed upon good looking personality (external appearance) of the ‘Physician’, ‘Attendants’ and the ‘Patients’. Various terms like Sumukha, Sudarshana, Subhaga etc. have been used in Ayurveda. 3 The concept of Rasayana therapy highly suggests the importance of Yuvavastha in which person wants to look more attractive. Though Ayurveda considers the importance of beauty irrespective of age or sex, it has been given equal importance to health along with beauty. Only healthy body and mind fulfils criteria of a beautiful person.Maharshi Charaka has grouped different herbs according to their effects such as Varnya, Keshya, Vayasthapana etc. which add to the Beauty of an individual 4 Many hygienic performances like Abhyanga, Snana, Lepa etc. are stated to have beautification of the physique and the psyche also 5 Moreover, Acharaya Sushruta was the first person who established ‘Plastic Surgery’ like ‘Auroplasty’ and ‘Rhinoplasty’ 6 The ‘22 Upkramas ’ explained under the heading of ‘ Vaikritapaham’ as Alepana, Pariseka, Utsadana, Pandukarma, Roma sanjanana etc 7 indicate the cosmetic approach in Sushruta Samhita .In ‘Astanga Samgraha’ and ‘Astanga Hridaya’ two groups of herbs labelled as ‘Rodhradigana’ and ‘Eladigana’ are characterized as the ‘Varnya group’ . Both the Acharyas have also described ‘Mukha Lepa’, ‘Mukha Lepa Varjya’and ‘Samyak Prokta Mukha Lepa Laksana’. In ‘Astanga Hridaya’ Acharya Vagbhata has mentioned six prescriptions of Mukha Lepa according to ‘Ritu Bheda’ (season) 8 Ayurvedic Concept of Cosmetology The Cosmetic approach in Ayurveda is related to the healthy status of the body as well as mind 9 The description available in Ayurvedic texts in context of Cosmetology in general and healthy personalities can be mainly categorized into three divisions as – (1) Factors determining Beauty. (2) Factors contributing towards Beauty. (3) Factors improving Beauty

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Preeti et. al “Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision.” : 2022; 5 (8):133-137 135 1. Factors determining Beauty Some of the factors are described in Ayurveda , which play keen role in the determination of beauty of a person: viz. ❖ Prakriti, Sara, Samhanana, Varna, Prabha, Chhaya, pramana of various Angavayavas determines the organic Beauty. ❖ Dirghayu Lakshanas described in texts give the aesthetic sense and fundamental base of Personality and Beauty. 2. Factors contributing towards Beauty ❖ Dosha, Dhatu in their normal functioning status contribute to maintain the Beauty. ❖ ‘Agni’ in equilibrium state, by digestion and metabolism produces Bala, Varna, Ojas, Dhi, Dhriti, Smriti etc . ❖ Similarly, Matrijadi Shada Bhavas and Panchamahabhautic combinations contribute in creating inherent Beauty. ❖ Age, Sex, Religion, Race and anthropology also have considerable impact upon the Beauty. 3. Factors enhancing Beauty Ayurveda Ayurveda elaborates description of adjuvants like – • Dinacharya • Ritucharya • Achara Rasayana • Various methods in the form of internal medicines like Mahakashaya • Surgical treatment like Plastic surgery, Vaikritapaham • Diet as Hitatama, Matravat, Sadapathya dravyas • Medicines like Rasayana, Ghrita, Taila etc are available. Ayurvedic Herbs as Cosmetics Ayurvedic Classics mentioned some of the specific measures for enhancement of different aspects of beauty. There are several topics related to beautification in Ayurveda of which following are described briefly: Dashemani Dravyas: Acharya Charaka has mentioned Varnya, Kushthaghna and Vayasthapana Dashemani in sutra sthana which indicate the importance of Cosmetology during that period. Each Dashemani has ten drugs having similar pharmacological action. a) Varnya Mahakashaya (Complexion Promoters) Varnya Mahakashaya is the group of drugs, which have complexion promoting action and also blood purifying property that play an important role in skin disease 10 The drugs are: 1. Candana (Santalum album) 2. Tunga (Callophyllum inophyllum) 3. Padmaka (Prunus cerasoides) 4. Usira (Vetiveria zizanoides) 5. Madhuka (Glycyrrhiza glabra) 6. Manjistha (Rubia cordifolia) 7. Särivā (Hemidesmus indicus) 8. Payasya (Ipomoea digitata) 9. Sitä (Cynodon dactylon) 10. Lata (Cynodon dactylon) b) Kusthaghna Mahākaṣāya (Anti-dermatosis) Acharya charaka has described the drugs having kushthagna property in this dashemani which are used in many skin diseases and contribute to maintain beauty 11 1. Khadira (Acacia catechu) 2. Abhaya (Terminalia chebula) 3. Amalaka (Phyllanthus emblica) 4. Haridra (Curcuma longa) 5. Aruşkara (Semecarpus anacardium) 6. Saptaparna (Alstonia scholaris) 7. Aragwadha (Casia fistula) 8. Karavīra (Nerium odorum) 9. Vidanga (Embelia ribes) 10. Jātīpravāla (Jasminum officinale) c) Vayasthapana Mahākaṣāya (Longevity promoters) The Rasayana that are described by Charaka acts as Vayasthapaka . These drugs have anti-oxidant, astringent and rejuvenating properties 12 The Vayasthapaka drugs are: 1. Amṛtā (Tinospora cordifolia) 2. Abhaya (Terminalia chebula) 3. Dhātrī (Emblica officinalis) 4. Muktā (Pluchea lanceolata) 5. Sweta (Clitoria ternatea) 6. Jivanti (Leptadenia reticulata) 7. Atirasa (Asparagus racemosus) 8. Maṇḍūkaparṇī (Centella asiatica) 9. Sthira (Desmodium gangeticum) 10. Punarnava (Boerharia diffusa) Keshya Dravya : 13 Keshya is the group of herbs and animal products, which has beneficial action on the hair in terms of their length, strength and texture. • Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba) - Improves quality of hair, Rejuvenating, anti-aging. • Hastidantamasi (Ash of elephant ivory) –Improves hair length, strength and texture. • Narikela (Cocos nucifera) - hair care, anti-fungal and antibacterial properties. • Gokshur (Tribulus terrestris) - control hair fall • Til (Sesamum indicum) - Hair care, skin care.

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Preeti et. al “Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision.” : 2022; 5 (8):133-137 136 Kesha Krushnakarak Dravya 14 : Hair blackening is very popular since ancient times. Following drugs are well described in Ayurveda : • Indravaruni (Citrullus colocynthis) -Prevent greying of hairs and as an antidandruff agent. • Bhringaraj (Eclipta alba) - hair growth, darkening of the hair and makes them lustrous and shiny. • Gunja (Abrus precatorius) - Prevent greying of hairs. • Sikakai (Acacia concinna) - hair growth, darkening of the hair. • Ritha (Sapindus trifoliatus) - Prevent greying of hairs and makes them lustrous and shiny. • Nilini (Indigofera tinctoria) - hair growth, darkening of the hair. • Amalaki (Emblica officinalis) - Prevent greying of hairs and as an antidandruff agent and makes them lustrous and shiny. Dravya for Tarunyapitika 15 : Pimples are effectively treated by many herbal formulations. e.g.local application of paste of following drugs: • Lodhra (Symplococus racemosa) - Skin glow, blood purify, Anti-bacterial. • Sarshapa (Brassica nigra)– Anti-bacterial, Anti-fungal, Anti-viral, Anti- Inflammatory. • Vacha (Acorus calamus) -Anti-bacterial, improve speech, memory and intelligence Dravya for Pada Saundarya: • Ginger or Garlic (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): Soak feet in a basin of warm water containing either a few pods of crushed garlic or crushed ginger. Add to this a little alcohol. Soak feet for 10 minutes. • Neem (Azadirachta indica) and turmeric ( Curcuma longa ) paste: Take a few Neem leaves and add to them a tablespoon of turmeric powder. Add a little water and put it into a mixer to form a thick paste. • Soaked foot in Luke warm water with salt 16 Dravya for Nakha Saundarya: Sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, nuts, nail cream with almond oil and honey can be prepared and left overnight 17 Gandha Dravya : There are certain herbs, which are used for fragrance and to avoid foul body odour e.g. • Svetacandana (Santalum album) - Deodrants, Various skin disorders, improves the skin complexion, relieves the itching, burning and redness of the skin. • Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia ) - Soaps, cosmetics, perfumes and decorations. • Kshudrabija (Terminalia catappa ) -Soaps, perfumes and skin toning. • Kumkuma (Crocus sativus) - Deodrants, Improves complexion and useful in hyperpigmented spots. • Distilled products of Rose, Jasmine ( Mogra ) etc. These are applied in the form of paste ( Alepa ) or Arka (Perfumes) over the body 18 Advantages of Ayurveda in Cosmetology • Long history of safe human usage, not tested on animals. • The human body responds well to natural substances and has a resistance to synthetic ones. • The skin and scalp are influenced at the cellular level, helping to improve normal function. • Promotes the capacity to absorb products. • Restores the normal pH balances. • Herbs have a mild effect but have powerful & specific healing properties. • Natural fragrances of flower and herbal extracts help to calm the nerves and induce relaxation. DISCUSSION Ayurveda is the tradition, life as well as medical science. It believes in creating beauty from both inner and outer aspect i.e. On the background of complete physical and mental health. Review of classical literature revels that, treatment modalities of almost all the ailments affecting beauty are described. The science of Ayurveda had utilized many herbs and floras to make cosmetics for beautification and protection from external affects. Ayurveda believes that stress or fear or any other negative thought or emotion can hamper skin’s natural glow and shine. Besides emotion there are certain disorders that have adverse effect on body and skin. Few such ailments can be like that of Eczema, Psoriasis and Acne etc. It is notable that mental stress can aggravate hyperpigmentation and thus Achar Rasayana should be adopted to have truthful, calm and easy life style and temper. To keep oneself fit and healthy at all ages Ayurveda has proposed numerous suggestions that if followed with dedication it maintains health and skin. Ayurveda suggests that the natural urges should not be suppressed. The bathing water must be cleaned and processed with medicinal and aromatic herb. Massaging of

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Preeti et. al “Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision.” : 2022; 5 (8):133-137 137 body should be done regularly with Varnyadravyas. Hair massaging should be done regularly to keep it healthy and shiny. Natural products like Bhringaraj oil, coconut oil, castor oil or any other processed with Heena, Amla, Aloevera, Brahmi, Neem and Jatamansi should be used. Massage also relieves insomnia and induces good sleep. CONCLUSION Cosmetology is one of the major emerging branches gained attention of researchers, industry and general public globally. The synthetic cosmetics can cause various adverse reactions. Therefore, various herbal/Herbo mineral cosmetic preparations are needed to be standardized and their safety studies and systematic clinical studies also require for validation and global acceptance. Acknowledgements - Nil Conflict of interest - None Source of finance & support – Nil ORCID Preeti Gupta , https://orcid.org/ 0000-0003-0285-7588 REFERENCES 1 Tripathi R.D, Vaghbhata: Asthang Sangraha, with Saroj hindi commentary Sutra Sthan 19/39 Chaukhamba Sanskrit Pratishsthan, Delhi, Edition Reprint 2005.pp.370 2 Tripathi R.D, Garuda Purana Ka. 1 chap.63 Int. J. Ayur. Pharma Research, 2015;3(9):22-25 3 Shasttri K, Charaka Samhita with Ayurvedadipika Comm. vimana sthana 8/96 Chaukhambha Sanskrit series, Varanasi 2000. 4 Shasttri K, Charaka Samhita with Ayurvedadipika Comm. By Chakrapanidatta; with Hindi commentary Sutra sthana 4/8, Chaukhambha Sanskrit series, Varanasi 2000. 5 Shasttri K, Charaka Samhita with Ayurvedadipika Comm. By Chakrapanidatta; with Hindi commentary Sutra sthana 5/93-94, Chaukhambha Sanskrit series, Varanasi 2000. 6 Acharya YT, Sushruta Samhita with Nibandhasamgraha Comm. By Dalhana; Sutra sthana 16/5-6 Chaukhambha Orientelia, Varanasi 7 th Edi. 2000. 7 Acharya YT, Sushruta Samhita with Nibandhasamgraha Comm. By Dalhana; Chikitsa sthana 1/68-78 8 Chaukhambha Orientelia, Varanasi 7 th Edi. 2002. 9 Sharma G, Astanga Samgraha : with hindi commentary Sutrasthana 22, Choukhambha Samskrit Samsthan, Varanasi,2010 10 Shastri K, Charaka Samhita with Ayurvedadipika Comm. By Chakrapanidatta; with Hindi commentary. Sutra sthana 1/41, Chaukhambha Sanskrit series, Varanasi 2000. 11 Shastri K, Charak Samhita with Ayurveda dipika Teeka by Chakrapanidatta, Sutra Sthan 4/10 published by Chaukhamba Surbharati Prakash, Varanasi, Edition Reprint 2009.pp.79. 12 Shastri K, Charak Samhita with Ayurveda dipika Teeka by Chakrapanidatta, published by ChikitsaSthan 7/84, Chaukhamba Surbharati Prakash, Varanasi, Edition Reprint 2009.pp.212. 13 Shastri K, Charak Samhita with Ayurveda dipika Teeka by Chakrapanidatta, Sutra Sthan 4/18 published by Chaukhamba Surbharati Prakash, Varanasi, Edition Reprint 2009.pp.98 14 Srivastava S, Sharngadhar: Sharngadhar Samhita with Jivanprada Hindi teeka published by Uttar khanda 11/17- 18 Chaukhamba Orientalia, Varanasi, 3 rd edition 2003.pp.429-430 15 Srivastava S, Sharngadhar: SharngadharSamhita with Jivanprada Hindi teeka Uttar khanda 11/11 published by Chaukhamba Orientalia, Varanasi, 3 rd edition 2003.pp.430-431 16 Srivastava S, Sharngadhar: Sharngadhar Samhita with Jivanprada Hindi teeka Uttar khanda 11/11 published by Chaukhamba Orientalia, Varanasi, 3 rd edition 2003.pp.428. 17 Ayurvedic Cosmetics Market Outlook 2018 from Kuick Research, pp.85. 18 Ibidem (16) 19 Ibidem (16) How to cite this article: Gupta P, Verma J, Singh C, Purvia R.P, Adhlakha M “Cosmetology: An Ayurvedic Vision ” IRJAY.[online]2022;5(8); 133-137 Available from: https://irjay.com DOI linkhttps://doi.org/10.47223/IRJAY.2022.5817

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