Society as depicted in the Chaturbhani (study)

by Mridusmita Bharadwaj | 2022 | 64,215 words

This page relates ‘Food and Drink in ancient India’ of the study on the Chaturbhani: a collection of four Bhanas which represents a genre of dramatic performance peculiar to the ancient Indian tradition of theater and performing arts (i.e. Natya-Shastra). More specifically, this study examines the historical, literary, cultural, and satirical aspects of ancient Indian society as reflected in these four Sanskrit plays.

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Part 4.10 - Food and Drink in ancient India

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[Full title: Socio-cultural Aspects of the Society as Depicted in the Caturbhāṇī (10) Food and Drink]

Food and Drink—as Depicted in the Padmaprābhṛtaka:

Regarding the eating habits of the people, the Padmaprābhṛtaka mentions foodstuffs viz., pāyasa^[1] and takra^[2]. Pāyasa is a type of pudding made of milk, rice and sugar^[3]. The Amarakoṣa presents the synonyms for pāyasa as paramānna.^[4] It is mentioned in the Rāmāyaṇa that king Daśaratha received pāyasa as a boon from the sages which was prepared by the gods; conferring progeny, bestowing affluence and improving health^[5]. Takra is buttermilk mixed with water.^[6] To prepare takra, buttermilk should be mixed with the third part of water according to the Amarakoṣa.^[7] Stealing of dairy products including takra was also regarded as a punishable offence according to the Manusmṛti.^[8]

People consume rice and other rice products as basic food items. Another food item of rice, prevalent in that time was paramanna i.e., an exquisite rice^[9] pudding mixed with madhu i.e., honey^[10], sarpisaṣka i.e., butter^[11] and upadaṃśa i.e., condiments.^[12] In the society of the Padmaprābhṛtaka, people ate lots of food items of dairy products. As a result, lots of people got connected with the occupations of cowherds and sellers of dairy products^[13].

Drinking wine was habitual for ancient Indian city dwellers. People took upadaṃśa along with madhu i.e., wine^[14] as stated in the Padmaprābhṛtaka.^[15] Upadaṃśa is anything eaten in addition to exciting thirst or appetite, a relish, condiment.^[16]

Food and Drink—as Depicted in the Dhūrtaviṭasaṃvāda:

The Dhūrtaviṭasaṃvāda mentions a dish called upadaṃśa. Upadaṃśa is anything eaten in addition to exciting thirst or appetite, a relish, spice.^[17] This was assumed to be taken in between having liqueur. The author mentions upadaṃśa considering same with hāsopadaṃśa.^[18] In the veśa, people can enjoy the sweet chatter of the courtesans which is considered as hāsopadaṃśa, getting in between the erotic moments.

Food and Drink—as Depicted in the Pādatāḍitaka:

Śyāmilaka has mentioned various kinds of foods that were enjoyed by the people at the age of the Pādatāḍitaka. The author refers to a foodstuff called apūpa.^[19] Apūpa is a cake or a sort of bread.^[20] Apūpa and pūpa are the same kinds of sweets made of flour or meal according to the Amarakoṣa^[21]. Apūpa is mentioned to be carried by the gamblers to the brothel after winning in the dice.

The references of consuming meat reveal people were also habituated with non-veg items. In the central market of the Sārvabhauma, there were shops where people crowded for buying māṃsa i.e., meats of birds.^[22] In another place, the poet mentions that the gamblers carried māṃsa to the brothel after getting money in gambling.^[23]

As stated by the Pādatāḍitaka, the rogues are addicted to the drink called madhu.^[24] Madhu is a sweet intoxicating drink, wine or spirituous liquor^[25]. The play has mentioned one more liquor called āsava. This liquor is distilled from sugar, molasses.^[26] In the Kumārasambhava also, the poet has mentions the word āsava for denoting a kind of liquor that is very intoxicating by nature.^[27] Madhu, āsava, surā, madirā are the names of various kinds of wine as mentioned in the Halāyudhakośa.^[28] Śyāmilaka makes a play on the term vāruṇī by indicating the blessing of goddess Vāruṇī or Surādevi^[29] upon Drauṇilaka, the superintendent of the courtesans. In a direct sense, the author has used the term vāruṇī for the goddess Vāruṇī i.e., wife of God Varuṇa; but he tries to suggest the intoxication caused by vāruṇī i.e., a spirituous liquor.^[30] The Amarakoṣa also infers vāruṇī as liquor.^[31]

There was the provision of pānāgāra i.e., drinking houses in the central market of the Sārvabhauma^[32] where people could freely afford drinks. The Mahabhārata has also mentioned the provision of pānāgāra^[33] in the ancient Indian society. An item named upadaṃśa is mentioned by the Pādatāḍitaka which is consumed especially with wine. Upadaṃśa is a relish, condiment or a kind of food item that excites thirst or appetite.^[34]