8. Ancient Indian Cooking and Cookery (according to Manasollasa)

In the Manasollasa king Somesvara says that health is more important than kingdom. Only a healthy person can be a good administrator. Hence a king should have skilled cooks or Sudas appointed in their kitchens. 134 This same idea is found in Avantisundari Katha also. Further Somesvara tells that good food is necessary for health. According to Adelle Davis "Good food is a 135 133 symbol of love, having psychological value which may even exceed its sensory and physiological contributions. 136 132. vyadhibhirvarjito raja rajakaryaksamo bhavet || 2.1.10. 133. annapana, visesajnah mamsapakavisaradah | sakapakakaladaksah pakvannakarane budhah || panavyanjanatattvajnah khandapakasyaveिdinah | ksira prakarabodvarah sudah karya mahibhuja || 2.2.137-138. 11 134. K.S.Madhavasastri. 'Avantisundari Katha'. (Trivendrum, 1954) pp.28-29. 135. iti pancavidham hrdyam pathyam bhunjita bhupatih | 3.13.1526. | bhavyam pathyasina nityam nirujo jayate tatah | 2.1.10. 136. Adelle Davis. 'Let's cook it Right'. (George Allen and Unwin Ltd., London 1971), p.13.

356 # The food habits of the people under the Calukyas might not have been much different from the general pattern prevailing in Karnataka today. The cultivation of rice, wheat and vegetables was common and they formed the stable food of the people. Pulses were used both as food and as feed for the cattle. The upper classes were purely vegetarian, particularly the Brahmanas. But the bulk of the population supplemented its diet by the use of meat. Use of intoxicating drinks and other juices was quite common. 'An inscription of Durvinita mentions that 48 learned Brahmanas of Kolintur were 137 incessantly taking Soma juice. Somesvara gives full information about the training of vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian cooks. He tells how to cook rice. "Before the cooking of rice, clean the rice, and use a copper pot or earthen pot. One unit of rice for three units of water is the rule of Modern scientists also have the preparation. #138 accepted this rule. Osee Hughes and Marion Bennion 5 137. B.Sheik Ali. 'History of Western Gangas' (University of Mysore, Mysore 1976) p.267. 138. sthalyam tamrakrtayam va mrjjatayamathapi va | tandulatrigunam toyam nicipya ca vidhaya ca || 3. 13.1532. ny

357 say that 'Pre-cooked rice requires a minimum of preparation time. One cup of pre-cooked rice will yield two to three cups of cooked rice."139 Somesvara gives instruction regarding the preparation of many articles of food:Payasa: by Payasa is prepared using good rice and the milk of a buffalo which has delivered many days back. In addition, Nagaracurna, Sugar and Sugandha dravyas are also used in preparing a delicious payasa. Mandaka: Regarding the preparation of Mandaka, Somesvara has suggested that wheat should be washed with water and dried. 141 Such wheat should be powdered. The pure wheat powder of such wheat should be mixed with ghee, salt, milk and water. Bound balls of such a mixture 140 139. Osee Hughes and Marion Bennion. Op.cit.p.311. 140. saravestitasevakai divasairlaghuvistrtaih | ciraprasutamahisipayasa payasam pacet 11 3.13. 1555. 14/ . godhumah ksalitapasubhah sosita ravirasmibhih | argrenuntermauit: utfmeut fagdigar: || 3.13.1556.

358 142 should be prepared processing it in a wooden utensil. Pure oil should be applied to such balls of rice powder. After doing so they should be stretched by hand action gradually and should be baked on a metallic pan placed over mild fire, and should be taken out before they are burnt to black colour. He further says that the fourfold Mandaka is the best one. Polika: Somesvara says that wheat flour balls should be prepared as already described in the preparation of Mandaka. The desired sweet things to be used in the Polika in a suitable form should be placed in the centre of the streched surface of the ball. After enclosing the sweet thing in the ball, it should be 144 stretched neatly by using the Pesini (meaning Lattanige in Kannada and Latana in Marathi). After they are 142. lavanena ca sammisram ksiranirena phinditam | sumahatyam kasthapatryam karasphlairvimardayet || 3.13.1558. 143. pakvamscopanayecchighram yavatkarya na jayate | catastasca catastasca ghatina mandaka varah || 3.15.1562. 1440 golakan pistakaliptan pesinya tanu ( prasarayet || 3.13.1563.

359 properly stretched, they should be spread carefully on a Care should be taken to see that both the 145 Somesvara says hot plate. surfaces of these are properly baked. that the slightly blackish red Polika is the best. t Purika: Regarding the preparation of Purika, Somesvara has said that pure wheat flour ball should be prepared as already described and stretched suitably by the use of Pesini and fried properly in oil. 146 Dosaka: Regarding the preparation of Dosaka Somesvara says that there are two types, namely by the mixture of rice with Bengal gram (Canaka) and second by the mixture of the black gram (Masa). A paste of the mixture of Bengal gram, powdered Hingu (asafoetida), Jiraka, and common salt should be prepared. A small quantity of oil is to be smeared on the hot metallic pan. Then the paste already prepared as described above, is to be poured on such a pan, and to be spread uniformly. Care should be taken to cook properly both the surfaces of the Dosaka. 145, sutaptatapaniksiptanisatpakvanvivartayet | kharpare'pi pacedevam polikanamayam krpah || 3. 13.15640 146. kincitprasaritastaile purika vipacecchubhah | evam tapyam pacedanyah parikasca vicaksanah || 3.13.1571.

360 Instead of Bengal gram, if Black gram is used, that is the 147 second type of Dosaka. Iddarika: Regarding preparation of Iddarika, Somesvara says that the paste of rice, masa, Hinqu and Jiraka should be kept for a day or two so that it would be sour to taste. Such a paste should be placed in small quantities in the Pitika, 148, and cooked by steam properly. Gharika: Regarding the preparation of Gharika, Somesvara has said that a thick paste of the mixture of Bengal gram powder or the Black gram powder, hingu (asafoetida), Jaraka and common salt should be prepared. It should be rounded suitably, five to seven holes should 149 be made in it and it should be fried properly in oil. 147. vidalam cankasyaivam purvasambharasamskrtam | dronyam tailaviliptayam dosakan vipacedbudhah || masasya rajamasasya vohanasya ca dosakan | anenaiva prakarena vipacetpakatattvavit || 3.13.1573-1574. 148. sthalyam vimardha bahusah sthapayettadahastatah | amlibhutam masapistam pitikasu piniksipet || 3.13.1579. 149. taptataile pacedhavallauhityam tesu jayate | gharikasamjnaya khyata bhaksyesu sumanoharah || 3.13.1584.

361 Vatika: ● --------Somesvara says that a paste of the mixture of Bengal gram powder or the Black gram powder, sugar, cardamom, and pepper should be prepared. It should be rounded suitably, and it should be fried properly in oil. Further Somesvara tells that the Vatika put into the Kanjika (the thin gruel of rice) is called Kanjika. If it is put into the mixture of curds, common salt, Ardraka, Dhanyaka, Jaraka, Maraca and hihgu it is called Temana. 150 These names of food articles are current in many languages in India. The method of using Hingu (asfoetida) as given in the Manasollasa is not to use it in small quantities as is now being done usually, but by using Hihgu water. Water can give the smell of Hingu if the 150. nischdriा gharikah pakva mathite sarkarayute | elamarica samyukte niksipta vatikabhidha || ta eva vatakah ksipta kanjike kanjikabhiyah | yatra yatra dravyadravyastannamna vatakastu || aranalena sandrena dagdha sumathitena ca | saindhavardrakadhanyakan jirakam ca vimisrayet || maricani dvidha krtva niksipettatra pakavit | dravya vighattayan sarvam pacedhavadvanibhavet || uttarya vatakan ksiptva vikirenmaricam rajah | higuna dhupayetsamyak vatakaste manobhidhah || 3.13.1585-1589.'

re 362 powder of Hingu is mixed with water and kept standing for some time. According to G.K.Shrigondekar 'This use of 151 I Hingu is not known in Northern India. "In Karnataka there were some special sweets. According to Kavicarite the popular sweets were Holige, Ladu, and Srikarne". 152 There is reference to a variety of delicious eatables written by Sivakotyacarya which is in Vaddaradhane 153 one of the ancient works in Kannada literature. This work belongs to the 9 th century A.D. Hence, it can be surmised that those eatables were common among the people in those times. The names of eatables mentioned in the work is as follows: Bennegasidamoda sugandha parimalam narpa tuppamum palavum tereda badugalum tuyyalum purigeyiddalige sodige lavanige ghrtapuram ladduge mandage modalagodeya padinentum tereda bhaksarupamgalumam nanaprakarada panamgalumam. . . 151.G.K.Shrigondekar. Manasollasa of King Somesvara Vol. II (Baroda Oriental Institute 1939), Intro. p.21. 152. B.Sheik Ali. Op.cit. p.268. 153. Ed. D.L.Narasimhachar (Mysore 1959), p.78.

363 This list mentions eatables like fresh clarified butter, Puri, Iddali, Laddu, Mandage etc. Further Somesvara, while describing non-vegetarian preparations mentions the method for removing the hair of boar. The animal should first be covered with a white piece of cloth. Boiling water should then be poured on the body of the boar with the help of a Goduka (a vessel used for taking water from a big earthern pot) with a handle slowly till the hair are so shaken from 154 the roots that they can be easily removed by hands. The remainder may then be removed with the help of a pair of scissors. Another method of removing the hair from the body is to besmear it with mud and burn the skin with fire made of grass. Somesvara suggests that mild fire is very good for the preparation of meat-food' Modern works tell its importance that "Meats should be cooked at low temperature... There are many advantages in cooking meats at low temperature... • 155 At low temperature 154. etesu mamsavargesu kesamcitkinciduttamam | varaham sitavastrena praksalyatyusnavarina || godhukena sadandena tavatsicenmuhurmuhuh | yavattadvataromani pronmulayante sukham karaih || 3.13.1608-1609. 155. ye: Putrui fafafanu zafeedayday | pralehakam mrdavagnau pacetpakavisaradah || 3.13.1627.

364 meats shrink little and are more attractive, they are juicier and more delicious. ,, 156 Somesvara says "The king should take his food along with his sons, grandsons, relatives, his special private 157. Then, somesvara refers to the manner servants etc. in which the district officers are to be treated while at dinner. The king himself should be supplied with a golden dish having a bunch of golden vessels for curries. The king with his face turned towards the east should sit on a cushion with a white napkin spread from the 158 naval to the knee. Thus the use of napkins at the time of dinner appears to be an old custom of rich men or princes and nobles in India. Somesvara suggest- "In the beginning the king should take rice and ghee, and in the middle sweetmeats should be eaten. Then he should take fruits, sweet as well as sour drinks, 156. Adelle Davis. Op.cit. p.15. 157. asritan suhrdo bhrtyan gitavadyavisaradan | ahuya svocite sthane nivesyagre tu bhojayet || putraih pautraih prapautraisca saha bhunjita parthivah | bhojyam bhaksyam tatha peyam lehyam cosyam tathaiva ca || 3.13.1524-1525. 158. vardhayetpurvakathitamannapakvannapanakam i urunabhipradesantam sacchadya sitavasasa || 3. 13.1588.

365 Sikharini and thick curds. 159 Lastly the king should take buttermilk and salt with rice, which may be followed by milk or gruel. 160 The Manasollasa further says that the king is recommended to change foods and drinks in accordance with the needs of different seasons. He is asked to eat, for instance, pungeut things in spring, sweet and cold things in summer, salted things in rainy season, sweet things in autumn, greasy and hot things in 161 Hemanta and hot and sour things in winter. It is probable that this routine is fixed in accordance with medical rules in order to counteract the Dosa which becomes predominant in a particular season. 159. tatah phalani bhunjita madhuramlarasani ca | pibecca panakam hrdyam liyecchkhirinimapi || 3. 13.1596. 160. tatastakannamasniyat saindhavena ca samyutam | ksiram va'pi pibetpascat pibedva ka cikam varam || 3.13.1597. 161. vasante katu casniyat grisme madhurasitalam | varsasu ca tatha ksaram madhuram saradi smrtam || hemante snigdhamusnam ca sisire pyusnamamlakam | evam bhunjita yadbhupo bhojyabhogah sa kathyate || 3.12.1780-1781.

366 Somesvara discusses in the Manasollasa (5.10.426-514) different types of wine in the section called 'Madirapanakrida'. Here Somesvara tells about many varieties of wine, its production, merits and demerits and so on. The manufacture of wine is not new in Indian civilization. The Manasollasa tells about Astara wine, which is prepared from Gold, Good-grains and so on. 162 In the same way it describes wine, called Pandura, Panasa 163 164 etc. Somesvara says that the drinking of good wine increases pleasure, and removes sorrow. And it is also a friend. He tells also the bad effects of drinking 165 162. kancana jananiksiptam madhvimastara-samjnitam | priyangutanimbuniciptam sosayitva vicurnayamt || yavanalayavagusca taccurnena vimisrayet | anyattathavidham pistam prthustham sthapayed ghamte || 5.10.431-432. 163. kimva vastrena samveptya galayennirmalam rasam | evam ca saligodhumayavasyamakakodravaih || krtam paistim suram mrstam hrdham pandurasamjnitam | 5.10.436-437. 1 164. vikrtam dhataki nisram ' nasasavamuttamam | 5.10.446. 165. aho vicitram kasyascidurdhito ragasagarah | tadabhunmadirapanam bandhuvacchokanasanam || vittagham labhavattasam mitravat premavardhanam | 5.10.497 - 498.

367 wine "It removes modesty or humility and destroys memory. It creates diseases, intoxication, delusion and sloth. "166 167 Then Somesvara discusses Paniyopabhoga or the enjoyment of drinking water. The king is asked to drink water often during meals. This, Somesvara says, imparts taste to the food and helps digestion. He recommends that whenever the king is thirsty he should drink water and should never think of time and circumstances, that is to say, whether it is morning or mid-night or whether 168 he is with a full or an empty stomach. According to Somesvara water should be stored in earthern pots or leather pots purified with Triphala i.e. Haritaki, Bibhitaka, and Amalaki and should be drunk in golden Further Somesvara states that 'The king vessels. 169 166. hinamithyatipanena bhavatyasu madatyayah | chardirmoho bhramastandrapralapo jayate tatah || 1.19.298. 167. madhye madhye pibedvari stokam stokam susitalam | 168. M bhojanasya ca rucyartham pakarthamasanasya ca || 3.14.1602. niyamo natra kalasya trsavega na dharyate | 3.14.1603. 169. karakairmrnmayaih slaksnaih pravalasanakantibhih | carmapatraih suramyairva triphla parisodhitai || 3.14.1624. 8

368 should drink Divya (rain), water in the Sarada season, flowing water from rivers in Hemanta, from tanks in Sisira, from lakes in spring, from springs in the hot season and from wells etc. in rainy season. Somesvara tells about Padabhyanga. 170 Further A king should use butter, gruel or Kolaphenaka as an unguent for applying to the soles in summer. He should use milk or buttermilk in the rainy season. Ghee washed in water a hundred times or sandal-wood water should be used in the autumn. He should use pure oil in the Hemanta and Sisira seasons. When the shampooing is over, the feet should be washed with water, by first applying the powder of Masura pulse or barley mixed with turmeric to remove the grease and then they should again be washed and dried. In this way Somesvara points out for mankind, the way of healthy life. 171 170. divyam saradi paniyam hemante saridudbhavam | sisire vari tadagam vasante sarasam payah || nidaghe nairam toyam bhaumam pravrsi piyate | 3.14.1627-1628. : 171. nidadhe navanitena kajakaih kolaphenakaih | varsasu payasa'bhyanjetpadau takrena va punah || satadhautena saradi sarpisa candanodakaih | hemante sisire caiva tailenabhyanjayetpade 11 3.15.1815-1816.