Position 1 - Pompey's Pillar, The Sailors' Landmark, And Modern Alexandria, North Toward The Sea

We have taken our stand out here on the south of the city in the quiet sunshine, where we are gradually to realize that we are actually in the land of the Pharaohs, and really about to visit the innumerable marvels of this land of many wonders. Over behind these houses is the sea across which we have come, for we are looking almost exactly northward. Yonder, then, to the northwest, is distant Europe (Map 1), and behind us is the fan-shaped Delta, gradually narrowing into the long valley or cañon of the Nile, which we are to traverse to the union of the two Niles, 1,500 miles south of this city.

We stand then with the whole African continent behind us (Map 1), out of the heart of which the Nile issues, and we look toward Europe across this world-famous city, which was the chief instrument in uniting the civilization of the two continents. For it was the intention of Alexander the Great, when he founded this city in 332 B. C., to make it the link, which by commercial and other activities should weld Egypt into the great Greek world-empire which he planned. His conquest of Egypt and his foundation of this city marked a new epoch for Egypt, and drew her forever into the turmoils of European history, which she had hitherto escaped.

Under the Greek Dynasty founded by Alexander's general, Ptolemy, son of Lagus, and from him called the Ptolemaic Dynasty, this city rose rapidly till it became not merely the most powerful commercial centre, but also the greatest seat of learning in the ancient world of that day. The Ptolemies endowed a great institution here known as the “Museum,” and made it the home of salaried scholars for the furtherance of science and literature. In connection with it was a great library, the first notable library known in history, which, when it was burned in the time of Caesar, contained no less than 900,000 rolls. Beside many magnificent public buildings, and the tomb of Alexander, who was buried here, there was a temple to Serapis, which surpassed anything of the kind in the orient. The city was visited by many Roman emperors, and maintained its superiority as an intellectual centre until the rise of Constantinople dimmed its lustre.

The introduction of Christianity resulted in so many tumults of the turbulent monks, that the city gradually declined also in material prosperity. Finally the discovery of a sea route to India diverted all its transit trade between India and Europe, to the Cape route, and Alexandria fell on evil days. Under Turkish sway it went from bad to worse, having not over 5,000 inhabitants at the beginning of the 19th century, but the progressive and energetic Mohammed Ali then came to its rescue, and by new canals and docks brought the long period of decay to an end, and saved the city from extinction. It has since then continued to prosper, and with 320,000 inhabitants, of whom seven-eighths are native and the rest European, it is a fine monument to the great conqueror who founded it.

The shaft before us was erected as a landmark for sailors by one of the Roman governors of Egypt, and in 392 A. D. one of his successors placed a statue of the emperor Diocletian upon it, which has since disappeared. In the Middle Ages it was mistakenly connected with the tomb of Pompey, who was murdered on this coast, and is therefore called “Pompey's Pillar,” just as the New York obelisk which once stood here on the beach north of us was called Cleopatra's Needle, although Cleopatra never had anything to do with it.

This column is the only surviving monument of any size from the days of Alexandria's splendor. It is 89 feet high, while the shaft alone, which is cut in one piece, is 69 feet high. In the base there have been used blocks from older buildings, one of which bears the name of Sethos I, of the 14th century B. C. We are introduced by this monument to the Graeco-Roman world, which followed the older Oriental supremacy; but as we go through Cairo, we shall see how Islam brought in a revival of Oriental power, which again eclipsed that of the Graeco-Roman age, upon which Islam and its prophet Mohammed followed. For one of the results of the Moslem invasion was the foundation of Cairo, which we shall now visit.

Follow on Map 3 the railroad southward from Alexandria, 129 miles to Cairo at the southern apex of the Delta. Turn then to Map 4, “Environs of Cairo,” where you see, Cairo lies close to the east bank of the Nile. Find the two red lines, numbered 2, which start from the citadel on the southeast side of the city, and branch toward the northwest. We are to stand now at the point from which these lines diverge and, facing northwest, look over that portion of Cairo and the country beyond, which the lines enclose.