2.2. Ear Ornaments (a): Kuṇḍala

Kuṇḍala is a ring type ear ornament worn on the lower part of the ear and hanging up to the cheek. It is worn by men and ladies and is seen in the images of the gods. Gold, precious stones like emerald, ruby, diamond, lapislazuli and crystal are seen employed in its making. It was designed after crocodile, serpent, harp, peacock tail, wheel, conch shell and leaf.

In Vālmīki-rāmāyaṇa there is a reference to the ladies of Rāvaṇa’s palace, wearing Kuṇḍala, studded with Vajra and Vaiḍhūrya. It is also described that their Kuṇḍala was furnished with small bells producing jingling sound^[1].

Among Purāṇas, Agnipurāṇa, Matsyapurāṇa, Vāyupurāṇa, Mārkaṇḍeyapurāṇa and Skandapurāṇa allude to the use of Kuṇḍala. Maṇikuṇḍala is seen referred to in Mārkaṇḍeyapurāṇa and Matsyapurāṇa. Devayāni is described there as wearing a pair of gem-set earring^[2].

Bharata suggests Kuṇḍala for male and female actors^[3].

Kālidāsa speaks of Kāñcanakuṇḍala, Maṇikuṇḍala and Cakrakuṇḍala. In Ṛtusaṃhāra, Kuṇḍala inlaid with ruby is referred to^[4].

Patrakuṇḍala (Leaf shaped), Nakrakuṇḍala (Crocodile shaped), Ratnakuṇḍala (Bejewelled), Makarakuṇḍala (Alligator designed), Sarpakuṇḍala (Snake shaped) and Śaṅkhapatrakuṇḍala (Conchshell shaped) are exhibited in the idols of gods. Of these, Śaṅkhapatrakuṇḍala is seen with the deity Umā, Sarpakuṇḍala with Śiva and Gaṇeśa, while the rest are worn by all the deities^[5].

Bāṇa gives numerous references to Kuṇḍala of various patterns. Kādambarī is described as wearing leaf shaped Kuṇḍala inlaid with ruby and emerald^[6]. In another context while describing a betel leaf bearer, Makarakuṇḍala is mentioned^[7]. In Harṣacarita, a harp shaped Kuṇḍala dotted with jewels, worn by Harṣa is described^[8]. Crystal made Kuṇḍala and Navaratnakuṇḍala also come in Bāṇa’s description^[9]. It is said that a rainbow coloured luster emanating from the multi-jewel studded Kuṇḍala was reflected on the Uttarīya of Keyūraka^[10]. Bāṇa indicates Kuṇḍala by the name Bālikā also. He describes Mālatī wearing Bālikā resembling Bakula fruits^[11].

In the works of Rājaśekhara, we have references to Cakrakuṇḍala and also to one designed like a peacock tail. Such Kuṇḍala are studded with multi coloured jewels^[12].

Some other texts mentioning Kuṇḍala are Bṛhatsaṃhitā, Śiśupālavadha and Rāmacarita (Rāmacarita)^[13].

Footnotes and references:

[1]:

V.5.71,78, 125, 17.32

[2]:

Agnipurāṇa, 112-116; Skandapurāṇa, V.3.106.15; Vāyupurāṇa, p.210; Mārkaṇḍeyapurāṇa, 2.1.100; 79.25, 21.103; Matsyapurāṇa, 27.17, 58.16, 136.38

[3]:

Nāṭyaśāstra, 16-20

[4]:

Ṛtusaṃhāra, II.19; Raghuvaṃśa, X.51

[5]:

JPAI, p.27; ASHAA, p.220

[6]:

NTAIS, p.86

[7]:

Ibid

[8]:

Harṣacarita, p.74

[9]:

Ibid

[10]:

Ibid

[11]:

Ibid, I^st Ucchvāsa

[12]:

Viddhasālabhañjikā, III.7; Karpūramañjarī, IV.13

[13]:

Bṛhatsaṃhitā, XLIII.25; Śiśupālavadha, II.19; III.5; VI.27; Rāmacarita, XII.113-116, XVII.241,72