The Lion-City

Among the islands in the East, Singapore is unique. From a humble beginning, it has emerged as a leading city in South-East Asia. Often referred to as ‘The Gateway to the Far East’ and ‘Polyglot Port’, it has of late in lighter vein been called ‘Chinkapore’. ^l

The Malay Annals, the tales of which are more or less legendary, state that it was a great city and capital of a vast empire. Once, five kings ruled simultaneously in Singapore, one being Raja Suran, whose son San Superba was also king of Menangkabau. San Superba’s son, Sang Nila Utama, became chief of Palembang. While adventuring in the Malacca Straits, his ship was driven to the Singapore coast by a terrible storm. A man of fortune, he became the first sole king of the island. During the Course of his wanderings here, he came across a lion, which accounts for the island’s early name Singapura, literally ‘Lion-City’.

Later, Singapura became part of Shrivijaya, then passed on to the Majapahits. In the 13th and 14th centuries, when the Javanese were consolidating their conquests in Malaya, the Singaporeans vigorously opposed them. The Malaya Annals record that a traitor, San Ranjuna Tapa, betrayed the island to the Javanese, for which evil deed he was turned into stone. After that, it is said, a curse existed on the place.

Although 500 years have since elapsed, the Malays and Chinese are still scared of moving freely after dark on Fort Canning, ‘the forbidden-hill’, which is said to be haunted by the spirits of victims of former bloodshed. When the Javanese finally subdued Singapura, its existing ruler escaped to Malacca, eventually becoming its king!

How Singapura came under the British is a legend in itself. Since 1817, Raffles, then Governor of Bencoolen, was looking for a suitable spot whence he could deal a decisive blow on the Dutch. Appreciating its strategic position, he foresaw the possibilities of developing the island as a military base and entrepot. Despite opposition from all sides, Raffles managed to obtain the approval of the Governor-General in India for acquiring Singapura for the East India Company. Commencing with a preliminary agreement with its owner, the Sultan of Johore, in 1819, Raffles got him to sign a treaty in 1824, by which the island passed into British hands.

There were then a mere 150 settlers on the stand, which was covered with thick jungles and swamps teeming with wild animals and reptiles. Moreover, Singapura had been a lair for pirates since time immemorial. It took the British over 50 years to stamp it out, after which Singapore began to make phenomenal progress.

Proclaimed a free port, it attracted thousands of immigrants, particularly Chinese. After a year, trade through the port totaled four million Straits dollars, which more than trebled in the next three years. Today, millions of pounds sterling worth of merchandise, mainly rubber and tin, pass through Singapore, South-East Asia’s biggest entrepot. The dream that Raffles visualised has come true.

A new-comer is generally stunned to learn that in polyglot Singapore (basically Malay country), 75 per cent of the population are Chinese. How did this conundrum come about?

Ptolemy mentions that ever since their first contact with Malaya, the Chinese were mining tin there. From the 5th century onwards, they had maintained a regular liaison with the country. Fahien, the noted Chinese Buddhist scholar, en route from India to China, touched the island about 400 A.D. The Sang dynasty sent envoys to the Malayan world, which during the Shrivijaya rule despatched tribute-bearing missions to China from 670 A.D. right up to the 10th century. Marco Polo’s travels about 1290 reveal the existence of Chinese traders in Singapore and other East Indian islands.

Trading in tin on the mainland, the Chinese gradually flocked to Singapore for easy living. The influx further increased ever since the British commenced importing labour from outside, the Chinese being favoured because they provided cheap and efficient labour. In time the settled Chinese community soon dominated the economic life of the island. Some of the descendants of the poineer labourers worked their way up to own large enterprises. By their overwhelming numbers, the Chinese transformed Singapore into virtually a Chinese city that it is today.

The Chinese population totals about 800,000, comprising various sects, namely, Hokkiens, Hock. Chens, Hock Chias, Hakkas, Straits Chinese and Cantonese, who form the bulk amongst them. Being a mixed bag, these sects strive against each other mainly for business leadership. Born and bred in Singapore, the Straits Chinese, although, essentially Chinese by race and culture, consider themselves sons of the soil. Their long influence has caused inclusion of Chinese words in colloquial Malay, which they speak in their homes as a mother-tongue.

By nature industrious and enterprising, and seldom fearing to risk capital in commerce, the Singapore Chinese posses initiative of a high order. Having built up a reputation for clean business, they are respected by other communities. By virtue of constant mixing with the diverse population, they have acquired a cosmopolitan outlook on life.

Highly organised as a community, they have their own chambers of commerce and associations covering every sphere of activity. They run vernacular newspapers, as also the widely-read English daily ‘The Singapore Tiger Standard’, founded by the millionaire brothers Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par, popularly known as the ‘Tiger Balm Kings’, Chinese schools have since long been in existence. After World War II, they founded the Chinese University (of which Dr. Lin Yu-tang was the first Chancellor), the main object being to keep their ancient culture and way of life before the Singapore Chinese.

Chinese clubs exist allover the island to cater to their social and sports needs. Of these, the Singapore Chinese Recreation Club and Chinese Swimming Club lead the field. In sport, they have made their mark in Malayan league cricket, football and volley-ball. In badminton, they have provided world champions. They also have their own cinemas and theatres, where Chinese dramas and plays are enacted, special programmes being held during the festivals.

The old China-town is situated in the south of the island, where the narrow streets are lined with crowded shop-houses; drying of clothes is done on bamboo-poles sticking out at odd angles from the upper storeys, and the smell of burning joss-sticks dominates the air.

In China-town, life begins in the early hours of the morning, with the pigs being slaughtered for supply to the numerous eating-houses. Vegetable and fruit sellers, the fish and meat-wallas and the newspaper vendors follow up in the steadily crowding streets. The whole day is filled with an endless chatter and din lasting into the late hours of the night. Brisk business continues in full swing until another day is gone.

Highly democratic, friendly and outspoken, the Singapore Chinese possess a sense of racial pride, a thing in which they are sometimes sensitive. They are also geniuses in arts and crafts. Chinese pottery is world renowned, while the Chinese doll-maker is a delight to watch as his expert fingers create life-like figures in coloured plasticine. It is common knowledge that the Chinese generally lives next to his kitchen, which demonstrates his, characteristic love of good food. Partial to parties, he lets himself go when entertaining his friends and relations during festivals.

For the last 40 years, the Haw-Par brothers donated millions for education not only in Singapore and Malaya, but also China. Madame Lee Choon Guan became a legendary figure due to her donations to the cause of sport. Tan Tock Seng built hospitals for the general public, while Gan Eng Seng and Tan Boon Liat founded schools. It is difficult to do justice to many other Chinese philanthropists, due to lack of space.

Many years ago, the brothers Ong Peng Hock and Ong Boon Tat firmly established Singapore on the world tourist map, by opening amusement parks known as the ‘New World’, ‘Great World’ and ‘Happy World’. These ‘Worlds’ are invariably parked to capacity with Singaporeans and foreign tourists, who come here to enjoy the real Singapore spirit,–the spirit of ease, comfort and pleasure.

In the past, some people have attempted to convey the impression that the Malays generally dislike the Chinese. It is not always correct to say so. The hard-working Chinese are economically better off than the Malays, and this may account for what little dislike there may be. It is not often known to foreigners that in private life, the Singaporeans irrespective of race live in perfect harmony, while maintaining their respective traditions, religion and culture. In many a Singapore home, for instance, it is not unusual to find an Indian gardener, a Malay car-driver, a North Indian watchman and Chinese servants living and working together.

Singapore, a melting pot of races, where the synthesis of various cultures has been in process for several generations, is on the way to becoming the cultural hub of South-East Asia. But, even when such a fusion comes about, the cosmopolitan atmosphere of Singapore will always bear a marked Chinese flavour. And so, none can but share the humour of the originator of the, recent pseudonym for the island-Chinkapore!

^l City of Chinese.